01 Spyder stalls after new battery?

Lucky me, I got a call from my mother-in-law today because her car is stalling after the battery was replaced earlier today. The car will not idle, just dies. As long as you stay in the gas it runs fine but as soon as you come to a stop it dies. I figured it just needed to be driven for awhile to allow the computer to reacclimate. Well, I drove it about 75 miles and it still stalls when coming to a stop. The check engine light also came on about 50 miles in but my scanner is a buddy's house.

I checked all the vaccuum connections and electrical connections near the battery and everything looked copacetic. Anything else I to do or check before I get my code scanner back?

Check the idle. Is it a definate electrical problem or is it just that the engine up and dies for no reason?

well its not the battery. Find out what you're CEL is and make sure everything is "copacetic"

Yeah definately not the battery. Need to get the code pulled see what it is and fix THAT problem first.

The problem started happening right after the battery was replaced, literally. Coincidence? Perhaps. I did pull the codes and got a P0101, VAF/MAF circuit out of range/performance. I cleared the code after reseating the MAF wiring connector and ran the car another 50 miles and the code didn't come back. I also cleaned the MAF and put a new air filter in it.

Again, the car never had any of these issues prior to the battery being replaced. The problem started happening on the first attempt to start the car after the new battery was put in. I know it's not the battery causing it. I figured the computer isn't relearning properly. I disconnected the neg battery cable twice today for 15 minutes to reset the computer to no avail. Typically how much does it cost to have the ECU reflashed at the dealer?

It acts just like my Mustang did when the idle air controller went bad. It just seems strange that something like that would crap out at the exact moment a new battery was installed.

Could you have possibly done something in the disconecting and reconnecting the battery that could have zapped the computer or the sensor? I dunno how much it'd cost to flash the computer or if it'd just be easier to replace it altogether.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Sanguinius

Could you have possibly done something in the disconecting and reconnecting the battery that could have zapped the computer or the sensor? I dunno how much it'd cost to flash the computer or if it'd just be easier to replace it altogether.

Unfortunately I didn't install the battery. She had it done at Advance Auto. She said one of the minions started the install but the manager had to finish it for whatever reason. The manager told her she'd have to take it to Mitsubishi. I'll see if I can find a junkyard computer to try.

Oh jeez one of the Advanced minions... NOT good most of those guys wouldn't know a feul filter from an air filter... (Though some of them ARE good I know an ASE certified master mechanic that works at one but not as a minion).

What was the final outcome of this problem? I have exactly the same issue with my 01 Spyder. Replaced the battery and the car will not idle...

Wow, i was planing to change the battery of my 00' gt, but with these i've seen i think i prefer to wait until the battery dies complety lol, does any had changed the battery of their cars and didnt had that problem??

i dont think you have to worry about changing your battery because one person had a problem. if you know what to do that shouldnt happen

Ok, heres my situation, after my post that i was thinking to change the battery, next day...puff my battery dies completly, lucky me a pep boys store was in the mall.

So i go to the service center and they use the jump starter and i can start my car., then i go to the service center where they take out the battery and tell me its not capable of holding the required charge, so that i needed a new one, i ask for one and was 59.99 and i with only 20 bucks so i tell them i cant afford it, and they put the bad battery again, next thing, the speedometer doesnt works, and the car starts to die, not stalls, just dies as soon i get off the gas. I remembered what problems i read here, then a few miles and the service engine light turns on... oh my...

But today i went to autozone buy the battery that the computer says it fits my car, and i see it, its bigger than mine, then i put it in the car, and the car starts as soon as i turn the switch, wow, the engine light turns off and my car runs great..so i'm happy again next thing i want to close the hood and.... I CANT CLOSE IT, the battery its to high, i take it out, and go to autozone and change it for another small one, its the same size the one i had.

I put it and the car starts good..but, yes another but, it looses power when i brake and then recovers it, so tomorrow im going to search for a good very powererd battery. I think this resolves the problem for the battery change. well at least for me. Good luck all.

get a dry or a gel cell they will put out the most cold cranking amp and they wont "die" like oher batteries. they cost a little more but they are worth it and no risk of getting battery acid on the car.

Great, thanks for the tip.

This is a pretty common problems with Mitsubishis had the same with my Montero Sport - Please read the following post from www.monterosportonline.com -

"Basically, your idle adaptive memory was erased when your battery died (or was disconnected) and you're idle air control (IAC) motor is now starting at a nearly closed position. Over time, carbon/oil build up around the throttle plate can restrict the amount of air that can flow past it... as more carbon builds up, the IAC allows more air to bypass the throttle plate to maintain idle (this IAC position is stored in an adaptive memory). Once the battery is disconnected, this adaptive setting is erased, IAC motor is reset, and now you're engine is chocking for air. To get this back to spec, you'll need to clean out the carbon/oil build up around the throttle plate to allow your engine to breathe again.
To clean the throttle plate and throttle body bore, disconnect your battery to erase any adaptive idle memory that you ECU has attempted to restored. After removing the intake hose from the throttle body, use some throttle body/ carb cleaner spray and spray it onto a shop rag and clean the area around the throttle plate bore, and the throttle plate itself- using the rag to wipe the area clean of any carbon buildup. Wipe everthing dry and wait a few minutes to give the cleaner a chance to completely evaporate. Go ahead and reinstall your rubber intake tube and reconnect your battery. Dont forget to reconnect the MassAirflow Sensor if you disconnected it Allow the engine to run for a few minutes and to recheck your idle quality. To verify everything is okay, allow the engine to idle for a few seconds and try grounding the power steering pressure switch wire (there's a single wire going to a switch at the power steering pump). Your idle speed should "bump up" a few hunded RPM's before settling down. You can also try allowing it to idle, then turn on your AC- again, the idle speed should bump up a few hunder RPM's before settling down. Good luck!"

For the record, I am another 2001 eclipse owner who had this same exact problem. I will try cleaning out the throttle body. Hopefully that fixes it. What a strange problem!!!!

hopefully that fixes it? this post is over 1/2 of a year old.... keep with the times.