3g eclipse dying when I stop... Please Help!

Hi everyone!
            I personally own a 1998 Eclipse GST, but that is not why I’m starting this thread. My girlfriend drives a 2000 Eclipse GT, and we’ve been having some idle problems ever since she left the keys in it and drained the battery a few days ago (I know, ugh). Well, I toped off the battery fluid with water and charged it back up to what I thought would be fine. It started fine and when I went to drive it, it dies when it comes to a stop. I thought maybe it wasn’t charged good enough, and it couldn’t keep spark at low RPMs since the alternator wasn’t producing enough power. After I charged it more and the problem persisted, I figured the battery was shot (it was the battery that the car came with when we bought it a half year ago). So we replaced the battery, and the problem persisted. Here’s the catch; if I manually raise the idle with my foot on the throttle (just a tiny bit), it eliminates all problems. The hesitation and the stalling are eliminated. So, I thought maybe I just need to raise the idle to a consistent 1k. As I’m reading though, the idle is very temperamental on these ECU dominated cars, so is that a bad idea? Will I be messing with fuel curves? If it is okay to raise, how do I do it? What appears to be the idle adjustment to me is a small screw that is very difficult to get to and is upside down to boot. I tried a small flathead, but can’t get it to work (but I was in the dark). Is it a Phillips? Please help! Thanks for any responses!

why would you put water in battery acid?

idle speed shouldnt be your problem.  i was having this problem for a while due to a cracked spark plug.  i believe that it was the number 2 cylinder.  i also had some problems like this for a short time due to a leak in the CAI right at the TB, so i had unmetered air going into the engine...causing it to run lean.
 
the reason that he put water into the battery, is that the battery is filled with water...and the water level should be maintained...but very few people check them.

How good are your battery terminals also. Because a bad connection would cause that

yep to both, check your terminals, spark plugs, plug wire connection area, and distributor. 

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll check all that hopefully tonight. Does it make sence what I'm saying about the idle though? I won't touch it, but just for my own ego, am I making any sense?
And it's a V6, so tell me how hard it is the check the back three plugs? Please don't say I need to pull the mani off to check plugs.
So, battery connections looked good to me,
I'll check the intake (stock),
plug wire connections,
distributor, and hopefully it won't be hard for me to pull the plugs. I have decent mechanical ability, but have never worked on this car before. Thanks again guys! Let me know if you have any more idea, and I’ll let you know how this turns out.
And do you think it’s just a coincidence that this all happened right after she drained her battery? I do not doubt it though. These things always come in threes haha... At least I don’t have to worry about the crank walking…
 


 

well raising the idle is something that you could do, however alot of the times that really isnt the source of the problem and all that ends up doing is masking the real problem. Thats why i ussually will not suggest doing that

okay, that's something along the lines of what I was figuring. Thanks: I'll let you guys know when I get a better look at it again. In the mean time, can someone tell me how hard it's going to be to get out the back plugs?

ive heard on those GT's its a real PITA.

I figured that would be the case given I know they were that way one the 3000gt's. If anyone has any helpful hints, please let me know. I should be looking at it tomorrow sometime.

you gotta remove the entire upper part of the intake manifold to get to them

so you say.. you replaced the battery... it might be the maf being dirty.. or the TB being dirty also... and when you take the negitive off the batt.. your ecu will reset.. along with everything else.. give it about 100 to 200 miles for it to readjust it self.. it will cure itself... or you can clean the filter of the TB and your problem should be fixed... when you start the car.. she kinda feelslike shes going to stall and the rpm drop.. but when you have your foot on the gas a bit.. it stays up and running correct?

ecu was set back to default and doesnt know anything so it will have to adjust to what your getting.. what mods do you have on the car? it just might be the airfilter not letting the right amount of air for the ecu to keep the car running.

TO TAKE the manifold off.. 5 bolts in the back of it.. 5 bolts in the front.. remove TB and dissconncet the wires.. sounds easy.. but trust me.. that will take you a good 2 to 3 hours.. ifyou havnt done it before..

Oh, I don't doubt it will take a while. There are no performance mods on the car at all. You really think the ECU will naturally fix this problem? And it will take several hundred miles to do so? If that's true, it does sorta make sense because this did start when the battery died. You're sure of this? I will look over some of the other things in the meantime, but I'm hoping I won't have to pull the mani (we'll see). I'll keep track of how many miles it has gone in the meantime. Can anyone else confirm this diagnosis? Thanks for you help man. If that's what happened, you might have saved me a lot of time and money.
-Greg

well i do have a turbo car... and let me find a link to help you out... to back up my fix =D

here are some links that may help with your problem...
 
try disc your battery once again.. let it sit for 30 min.. that will reset the ecu...
 
Here are some links to help you find your problem out.
 
also are you throwing a SES light?
 
it could be the Idle Air Controller which i hope isnt.. dont mean to scare you but it could be.
 
http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86256
 
also your TB could be the issue.
 
this is how to clean the TB
 
Clean the throttle body with some TB cleaner on a clean lint free rag (an old white t-shirt works great). Do not spray the throttle body cleaner into the TB, as it can get into the holes going to and from the idle air control motor. Wrap the rag around your left hand, and open up the throttle body with your right hand. Clean the area around the throttle plate and the leading and trailing edge of the throttle plate. Take out the battery while you do it, to get better access. Removing the battery will also reset your ECU. Then remove your PCV valve and spray some TB cleaner in it. Shake it back and forth and tap the TB cleaner out onto a clean rag. You should hear the guts of the valve moving back and forth as you shake it. Do this until you get clean fluid coming out, and all the cleaner is out of the PCV valve. Once you get everything back together, start up the car and let it idle for at least 10 minutes with the lights and ac on. This allows the ECU to learn the target idle speed
 
 
 
 

quote:

ORIGINAL: Gregory

Hi everyone!
           I personally own a 1998 Eclipse GST, but that is not why I’m starting this thread. My girlfriend drives a 2000 Eclipse GT, and we’ve been having some idle problems ever since she left the keys in it and drained the battery a few days ago (I know, ugh). Well, I toped off the battery fluid with water and charged it back up to what I thought would be fine. It started fine and when I went to drive it, it dies when it comes to a stop. I thought maybe it wasn’t charged good enough, and it couldn’t keep spark at low RPMs since the alternator wasn’t producing enough power. After I charged it more and the problem persisted, I figured the battery was shot (it was the battery that the car came with when we bought it a half year ago). So we replaced the battery, and the problem persisted. Here’s the catch; if I manually raise the idle with my foot on the throttle (just a tiny bit), it eliminates all problems. The hesitation and the stalling are eliminated. So, I thought maybe I just need to raise the idle to a consistent 1k. As I’m reading though, the idle is very temperamental on these ECU dominated cars, so is that a bad idea? Will I be messing with fuel curves? If it is okay to raise, how do I do it? What appears to be the idle adjustment to me is a small screw that is very difficult to get to and is upside down to boot. I tried a small flathead, but can’t get it to work (but I was in the dark). Is it a Phillips? Please help! Thanks for any responses!

 
also... if you did replace the battery.... try checking the alternator.... that could be it.. and for the screw dont mess with it.. very bad idea and can mess up alot on the car.
 
theres a link right here to say no no to moving that screw.

You're a full of information, and I really appreciate it!  You guys are awesome! I didn't try it yet, but she's on her way over with the car now. How do I check the alternator? Disconnect it and hook up a volt meter?
And to answer your question, is has not been throwing the SES light. (Fvew!)
I'm confused to why you told me you have a turbo car though, or were you just telling me that the cars are different?
-Greg

yeah.. i have a turbo car.. and i had that problem what you have now.. there might be a loose fitting like the air intake to the tb.. check that.. or check if the mas is connected. firmly.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Gregory

You're a full of information, and I really appreciate it!  You guys are awesome! I didn't try it yet, but she's on her way over with the car now. How do I check the alternator? Disconnect it and hook up a volt meter?
And to answer your question, is has not been throwing the SES light. (Fvew!)
I'm confused to why you told me you have a turbo car though, or were you just telling me that the cars are different?
-Greg

if you have a new battery.. check if the battery has drained alot... thats the way i found out if i had a bad alt or not.. bad alt.. makes the battery drain really really quick. check that volt on the batt..what im leaning for is the stock air intake came loose and just needs to be tightened or cleaned out... thats what im really leaning on. because without air... the car will just idle funny and die... only thing i can think of is something to do with stock air intake... the mas. tb . or iac

because on my turbo car.. if i a coupler came off... there would be a massive air leak making my car  choke for air. and finally just die out on me. stalling the car.

THANK YOU! You did it my friend... Dissconneted the battery for 45 minutes and let it idle with everything (including compressor) on for 15 mnutes, and problem solved. Ran just like it used to!
But here's the new thing... As many of you have experienced with the stock stereo (I'm sure), I've been locked out now and need a code which I don't believe I have. I took care of this problem on my dsm by getting the serial number on the back and taking it to a dealer. Is this the only way to go about it? I'm gonna do a search right now. Thanks again everyone!
-Greg

try checking your manual... maybe they might of put the radio code on there *previous owner* ifn ot dealership is the way to go... or i can sell you mine cheap with code haha =D

anytime man anytime =D

haha, well, how much?