93 eclipse front end shake

Small shake through steering wheel at 60-80. When braking off freeway down the off ramp it really shakes bad. Tie rods, Wheel bearings? I can't pin point the problem. Any help would be awsome.

Could be tie rods, tires, bent rim, front rotors, wheel balance, or a combo of each. If its a tie rod you should easily be able to see and feel the play by hand. I would check the front end connections first, if its there its an immediate safety concern! You will lose all steering immediately if your tie rod disconnects. Old unevenly worn tires will also do it. One time I had worn tires and a bent rim. Does the car pull to any side either when braking or just going straight down the road?

Could Be a warped Rotor too.

Rotors are new, tire wear is even and fine one rim has a lip bend but it is in the rear passenger side.
The only time it drifts is with the slope of the road, other than that it runs pretty straight.
It is very confusing.

sounds like rotors evan though they are new the could still be warped from overheating. did you bleed the brake system when the new rotors were installed? if not than they may be applying more pressure that they usualy do and warped the rotor. the only reason i would say rotor is becaues of the shaking while braking. also check your brake pads i have seen broken pads do that.

If you bought those $49 rotors from the discount auto stores it could very well be a rotor. I quit using those a long time ago. My last rear rotor from NAPA in 04 was $102, glad to pay it as I do the job once. Of course the dealers are twice that. Please make sure its not a tie rod end.

It is not only cheap rotors that have warping problems. I have read reviews on Brembo rotors as well as the cheap ones. If you do not properly break in your new rotors the way the manufacturer instructs then it does not matter if they are Wilwood, Tokico, Brembo, whatever, they will warp. Same goes for pads.

Check the brake PADS not just the rotors. Check calipers and your wheel bearings. ie rods ends just don't really sound like the problem here. The shaking could be anything from a loose wheel (Check lug nuts make sure they are all tight) to your transaxles. Take a good look at everything in the driveline check for torn boots, clean up the joins and check for metal shavings anywhere, make sure that all zirk fittings have been greased. Wiggle any joints make sure there isn't any play in the tie rod ends and linkages, if you have access to a jack or lift get the car up and gently wiggle each wheel making sure it has no play both left to right and up and down. That should give you a good idea as to where the problem lies.

FireDoc, I never thought much about breaking in rotors. What do the mfg'r's say? I don't think I've ever seen instructions on break in. I can guess that if you go down a long hill with the new rotors on and braking or hard stand on it braking to over heat?? Anyway, I'm never hard on brakes. Did my Montero fronts at about 98K, just pads. Rotors were fine. I did my rears just after warranty I think, only because the slides seized and prematurely wore pads, Just did the rears again 114K.

What type of rotors are they? If you changed the pads with the rotors what were the pads?

Read this article, It may answer some questions. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/pad_rotor_bedin_procedures.jsp

WOW FireDoc, I've never seen such detailed instructions, never even in the rotor or pad boxes, unless I don't even bother to look. I've bookmarked the link and will pay more attention from now on. Thanks

I rot the rotors from Autozone. Got them at the same time to make sure that they were the same spent about $50 per. Replaced the pads at the same time and did a caliper overhaul seals and clean up.
The warped rotor would not account for the shake at highway speed. It is just brought out upon breaking on off ramps. I try not to be so hard on the brakes. Why do they not give you info on the breaking in rotors when they sell them to you. I really am in the wrong business.
I will check the boots next and as a point of saftey replace the tie rod ends.
I am due to rotate the tires next month but will figure this problem out first.

Thanks to all for the info and help with this issue I will keep you posted.

The reason they don't give you break in instructions is cuz it's not a real necessity for one and 2 they expect that the parts will be installed at a shop not a private residence (Our #1 supplier of parts we don't have on hand is Pep Boys). And I doubt the rotors are your problem. as you sayt it shakes down the road at higher speeds. Does it pull left or right when driving at any speeds? And have you checked all lugs recently? (I had that problem once. Someone loosened all the lugs on one wheel ate up the nuts and beat the studs to hell. Ended up having to replace the whole knuckle.)

Rotor break-in is important to those of us who want our rotors to last more than one pad change.

It drifts with the road slope left or right but not too bad. The lugs are all good, I did have that happen on one of my back wheels once kids or something must have thought it would be funny to try to kill me.

1. Grab the top of the front tire and try to rock it back and forth to see if your wheel bearings are worn out.

2. Get your tires balanced.

Interesting about the various break-in procedures. Here is the procedure from the Bendix web site.

A series of controlled moderate speed stops (15-20 Stops from 30-mph w/30 sec cool down) is required to properly "burnish" or break-in a new set of pads. During this initial stopping period, the process of lining transfer from the disc pads to the rotor surface helps condition the rotor surface to properly seat the brake pads. All pads are cured and all pads need to be burnished.

Replaced the tie rod ends and took care of some of the shake but not all of it.
No play in the bearings so what next? Noticed the steering bushings are a little worn.
** Is there any adjustment in the rack and pinion unit on a 93? something to take up any gear play or slop?

dose it only pull when accleration or dose it just pull is it to the road slope or just to one side? how bad is the slope in the road?

quote:

ORIGINAL: FireDoc

Could Be a warped Rotor too.

If it were a warped rotor it would shake the entire time you applied the brakes. Not at just a certian speed.

are you saying that it shakes when cruising at 60-80 AND also when braking off the freeway, or just braking between 60-80? If it shakes when just cruising between 60-80 check your alignment

make sure if you do alignment to do a 4 wheel it may cost a little more than a 2 wheel but it may never be right unless it is done.

The drift occures at any slope drainage slope just a very slight slope twards the shoulder of the road.
Rotated the tires front to back and still the small amount of shake. You can feel it in the steering wheel and a little on the floor.
It is for sur coming from the front end. Had the rotors cut not out by only .002 now they are straight.
Still the same it has to be some kind of play in the steering or stabilizer??
I am very confused but don't want to be replacing everything.

it may be that the toe angle of the tires is out or in causing a skae and a possable pulling when on an slight angle i would take it in an see what a tire shop like big o tires will tell ya usuly they can tell if teh toe angle is out by looking at it or they might tell you if it is out for free and than charge u for the fix.

I'll have to take it to a tires plus they seem to do a good job and tell you before doing any work.
This gives you the option to do it yourself and bring it back for the final alignment.