95 GS-T Clutch drops???

My GS-T just started doing this the other day. i'll take it to redline in first gear its fine, but at 6 grand in second gear the clutch will like just lag or something and it'll want to go back down to like 2 grand, but if you shift to 3rd it pauses for a second then kicks in. Could i be mis firing on my spark plugs??? It seems to happen always at the exact same spot on the tact never happens in first and happens in 2nd and 3rd. If i shift at 5 grand everytime it won't do it. Is there some sort of saftey on the clutch??? I'm lost as to what it could be.

it almost sounds like a rev limiter or governor. do you smell burnt clutch? can you still rev the car up when u push the clutch in or dose the car shut down until u shift or drop to 2 grand?

Nope no smells at all the car runs great just not when you take it that far. I can still rev the car up but to make it stop dropping i have to shift to another gear and it'll lag as your switching gears then the car will just pull you. I never tried to let it drop to 2 grand scares me makes me think i'll screw something up so i just shift to 3rd.

Sounds like a problem w 2nd gear. Like something is loose in the tranny. But then again I don't know alot about the rest of the driveline only engines and electronics (If I haven't proved the electronics part yet LOL) oh and aftermarket stereo and lighting installation. But my guess is that it's a problem w the tranny's 2nd gear if you're not burning the clutch up.

I agree you can rev the car up and the clutch is engaged but not burning so a slip problem between the clutch and the flywheel dose not seem to be the problem sounds like a electronic or tranny problem i would take it in to get it looked at. Cost about $80 to get it looked at.

Yep $80 sounds about right. That's what the shop I work at charges. Are you getting a CEL or anything? That usually gives you SOME idea what's wrong (I've seen quite a few lately coming in with bad gear ratio codes).

pinpointing exactly what is causing it can save money. Does it only do it when you floor it? does it feel like something is slipping? what does it sound like? can you rev up to redline slowly (not under boost) and does it still happen? id try an figure out myself before taking it in, but thats just me

Granted knowing what's wrong will help BUT a shop is STILL going to diagnose it even if you tell them what's wrong (Been there done that have a Mazda MX-3 that had a blown head gasket I TOLD them it was blown they STILL did all THIER nifty little tests to call me later and tell me I had a blown head gasket...). So if you're going to fix it yourself then go ahead try to figure out exactly what the problem is. If you're taking it to the shop just make SURE you can describe when where and how it happens to minimize the time it'll take them to figure out what's wrong and fix it. The biggest expense is labor in repairing a car. The less they have to do the quicker you'll get your car back AND the cheaper it'll be ;) (I work in a shop so I KNOW how all THAT crap works too).

I never tried doing it under normal driving. I don't take it above 3 grand when i'm just driving normal not racing. It feels like a governer to be honest. It gives the same feeling as hitting a governer. I think it may be a rev limiter, because when i race it always happens at the same spot everytime. The gears never slip or anything when i keep it under 6 grand ( 7 is the redline ) everything is smooth. As far as sound. It sounds like you over reved it then it tries to slow down to like 2-3 grand, but if you shift it picks up again and goes away.

When you guys race can you take your GS-T's to redline without this problem???

rev limiter is past 7k on a gst that isnt the problem

what boost are u running, does it feel like u hit a brick wall? fuel cut maybe?

Yeah your rev limiter is going to be around 7.5 K I believe.

maby the revlimter or other electronical device has gone bad and is overloading the computer and shuting the car down. this shouldn't be the prob but there are too many things that could be doing it i would highly suggest having the diagnostic done than decide if you want the dealer or shop to do it.

people have to learn about their engines if theyre going to be fixing them up. You really should try an figure it out yourself. The dealer's answer to a problem is to start replacing every single thing that 'could' be the problem, and charging you $500+ parts and labor. Think of all the $ you could save over your lifetime figuring these thigns out yourself.

You know what I think? I think that you are pushing your car to its outer limits and it's not happy. Stop trying to redline the damn car and not only will it last longer but you'll run out of stupid questions to ask.
I bet you lose your powerband at/before 6200rpm. Again, their is no need to go all the way to redline. My god!

I'm running stock boost. I guess you could say it feels like running into a brick wall. Its a big jerk like you lost a bunch of power. The cut doesn't turn off it just acts like you hit a governer. I've kept it under 7k for the past few days and not once has it cut out. Patsevo you give the worst advice ever, please don't ever post. DSM thanks for the input you seem to know what your talking about along with everyone but mr. Pat.

theres no harm in redlining, in fact occasionally redlining the car is good for it, it keeps the valves clean and carbon from building up. Anyway tho, did you try redlining without floooring it? thats pretty important, it will tell you whether its boost-related or not. I have a feeling you may be experiencing fuelcut, see if it happens more often in cold weather (at night etc)

Yep patsevo has NO idea what he's talking about. I redline my Sentra all the time. Well not ALL the time but quite frequently when in the first 2 gears to get moving quick. As for the cutting off DSM might be onto something. I hadn't though about feulcut. What size injectors are you running and how much boost?

quote:

ORIGINAL: DSMTalonAWD51

people have to learn about their engines if theyre going to be fixing them up. You really should try an figure it out yourself. The dealer's answer to a problem is to start replacing every single thing that 'could' be the problem, and charging you $500+ parts and labor. Think of all the $ you could save over your lifetime figuring these thigns out yourself.

The only reason i would go to the dealer is they have equipment to tell ya if one of the sensors could be the problem you are right a dealer could nickle and dime ya ta death but you could do the same to yourself if you start puting bigger injectors or fuel pump than it dose not fix the problem but it seams as if that was the problem and come to find out it was a bad or recalled sensor and a simple dignostic of the motor could have told you that. all im saying is what you said earlier pin point the problem it can save you time and money.

I wasn't trying to give advice. And especially to supid people.

Pat i got 4 words for ya DON'T BE A DICK!

pats right about the powerband, a gst with a stock turbo will lose power after about 5500rpm, butredlining is not the cause of the problem in this case

I am not trying to be a dick. Sorry. I just find it appauling that the owners of these cars think that they are invinsible. That these cars can and will go above the limits of the mechanical capabilities and when something happens or breaks, they ask " well I was doing 7500rpm pulls and now my cars does... such and such, what's wrong?"
This is the point that I am making.
Yes I realize that sometimes a WOT pull helps out with burning out carbon build up and oil sludge, but not evertime you shift or an everday event.