brakes and tuneup...

I drive  a 2003 spyder gt

Just changed the front brake pads and rotors.
Got em from here and they are fine, got the dimpled and slotted with ceramic pads.

http://brakeperformance.com/site/brake_rotors.php?ad=google&gclid=CJvpofDFj5MCFQQRGgoddTvDew

  It drives fine and the brakes work fine but I am getting a high pitched sqeak from the front drivers side when braking at low speeds...  They work great but the squeaks sounds like my pads are gone.  Any idea why this is happenning?  My only answer is  that the rotor isn't seated perfectly.  Should I take it off clean the hub and reseat it?  I only have 500 miles on the brakes now.

My second question is that my check engine light is on and off every 50 to 100 miles.  Had it checked and says it is an EGR error.  Would new plugs and cables solve this possibly?  I just had a new oem exhaust put on due to a ditch that jumped out in front of me so it isn't in the exhaust.  The problem is in the fuel system or cylinders somewhere... I'm guessing.  Another thing...  Looks like I have to take the manifold off to replace 3 of the plugs, anything else I should do while I have that open?  gaskets, belts, anything?  It needs some regular maintenance and I'm broke as sin so I'm trying to do as much as I can as far as tuning it up.  I asked and a tune-up would be $380 + parts....... ouch.

What kind of pads did you get w/ the rotors?  Depending what material the pads are thats prabaly where the squeak is coming from. 
 
 
Plugs and wires wont fix your egr code.  The egr has to deal with your emissions, either the egr valve is bad, clogged or no vacuum to the egr valve.
 
 
How many miles do you have on the car?
 

For the brakes. You will get squeking from ceramic pads, thats just how they are.

ok, ceramic pads is the problem then... still seems louder than normal though and it's only the drivers side...  74k miles on the car.  EGR valve........  need to find out where that is and check/replace it.  That stupid light is pissing me off

how do I check the Egr valve and vacuum sensor?  The $110 for the valve itself is going to be hard to scrounge up....  I'm switching careers and really broke, plus, I like doing the work on the car.  Any advice is appreciated.  I found the valve but I have no idea how to check if that is the problem...

Can I fix it or do I NEED to replace the whole valve?

to test the egr valve just start the engine and disconnect the main vacuum hose from it. If the valve opens and the engine hesitates and slows then they are fine. If nothing different happens then either the EGR is not functioning or the hose is clogged

Since your at 74k miles I'd suggest doing the 60k asap if you didnt do it already.  As for the egr valve apply vacuum to it at idle and if it acts like stalling then the egr valve is working properly.

What is the code your getting?

quote:

ORIGINAL: dsm1990gsx

What is the code your getting?

lost the paper I wrote it on, I'll get it checked again and repost.

thx for the help, I'll start a new thread when I get the code and after I check the valve manually.  Gotta go to work now...  starbucks... it pays the bills and I get health insurance...

I've been gradually working through my 60 k service so I can tell you a little bit about what you're looking at. In order to get access to the rear three spark plugs you're going to have to get that upper intake manifold/plenum off. Here's some of the stuff you'll have to deal with one way or the other:

1) Removing the battery and the battery tray greatly facilitates access to what you're going to need to get to. Good time to clean and charge the battery.
2) Your air intake system needs to come off too. Good time to change the air filter.
3) Your EGR valve is going to have to be decoupled from the upper intake manifold. Good time to replace the EGR gasket.
4) The throttle assembly has to come off too. Yet another gasket to think about.
5) Note on bolts: There are FOUR stay bolts. One on the left front. left rear, middle rear, and right rear - right behind the throttle assembly. You can't see the last two so use the force. This part was definitely NOT in the Hayes manual and it was all I could do not to go monsoon gorilla and just rip that thing off when I couldn't find them.
6) Take real careful notes. You're looking at close to 40 bolts you're going to need to keep track off... I sketched the motor and taped the bolts to their locations on the drawing. Whatever system works for you is great but I definitely recommend a system of some kind.
7) Once the intake manifold is off you've got the upper intake manifold gasket. Replace that and COVER the holes. If you drop a spark plug in one of those you are in a world of hurt.
8) From here you need to make some decisions. Things that make sense replacing are the spark plugs, ignition wires, valve cover gaskets (if needed), distributor cap (if needed), distributor rotor (if needed), and PCV valve. My valve cover gaskets looked good but I did everything else because I never want to take that intake manifold off again.

Once all that's done you've probably done all that could and should be done with the intake off.

A few extra notes.

1) That intake is made of aluminum. Everyone warned me to use a torque wrench or risk stripping or damaging that thing.
2) Keep an eye on your throttle cable when reassembling... I accidently screwed it in with the EGR gasket. Ended up having to replace the gasket again.
3) Unless you have incredible manual dexterity you're going to drop stuff reaching some of those rear bolts. I used my little magnetic pickup thingie about a half dozen times and I still have a 10mm wrench I have been completely unable to get out. It's stuck between the firewall and a maze of pipes, tubes, etc. I really want to let the car keep it but it seems to be right above something important with lots of moving parts.

Good luck!