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estraw
1/11/2007 10:40:51 PM
as for the gt vs gts thing, only the gts came with sportronic. but having a manual 5 speed wouldnt help distinguish them at all. so if you got the sportronic transmission, then that means you got a gts with 10 extra hp, if you have a manual then i cant help you there
Simss
1/12/2007 2:13:56 AM
nm didnt read the other 2 pages
TheEngineer
1/12/2007 8:33:41 AM
quote:

ORIGINAL: Sebba

Thats alot dude.....

yea but you made it sound like he just totally wasted his money when in truth he maybe spent about 6k more than what the car is worth.
jerusry
1/12/2007 2:35:01 PM
when you go that fast... you dont hit the brakes.... and you prolly have warped rotors cuz of it. what is that... like 120-130 mph??
TheEngineer
1/12/2007 2:46:51 PM
quote:

ORIGINAL: jerusry

when you go that fast... you dont hit the brakes.... and you prolly have warped rotors cuz of it. what is that... like 120-130 mph??

about 111-112mph
Sanguinius
1/12/2007 2:52:38 PM
Is that even a legal speed ANYWHERE? (Other than the german autobahn)...
Eclipseprince
1/12/2007 9:40:24 PM
oh my car is 45217km for a 2004 eclipse gt i guess i didn't do soo bad for 17000. it goes for around 20grand in canada. (p.s i live in toronto  in canada) lol. ye soo when i said 120 i mean't 120km not miles. when ever i got over 120 or 100km and den try and slow down the car shakes. I tried setting the tire pressure. it made some difference actually but styl shakes a lot. thank you for that advice sanguinius. other den that i was guess its probably my rotor too but maybe i'm wrong.
 
You dont think its probably the frame or whatever its called (the thing you do on the frame machine to straighten the car) wasn't accurately fixed, that may of caused it? No right?
 
jerusry
1/12/2007 11:47:58 PM
could also be a bad tie rod or wheel bearings... maybe... its a long shot tho... with an accident impact could have severely decreased the life... but who am i to guess... maybe it only happened on my car..
Sanguinius
1/13/2007 1:00:16 AM
First off a check you can do in your driveway to test your wheel bearings and tie rod ends:  Put the right (or left doesn't matter which side you start on) up in the air using a jack (Careful to put the jack on the pinch weld NOT on the rocker panel.  Rocker panel will dent and the paint crack, pinch weld it the PROPER spot for raising a car on a lift OR a jack).  NOW have a friend or relative grab the top and bottom of the raised wheel.  You look behind the wheel at the lower ball joint.  Have the buddy try to wiggle the wheel back and forth.  It should not move at all.  If it does then watch to see if the lower ball joint is wiggling in it's housing.  If so then REPLACE IT!  It's close to going bye bye and then BAD things happen.  NOW have them grab the front and rear surfaces of the wheel and push and pull THAT way (Basically how the wheel would move if turning but have them shake it fairly rapidly not a slow push or pull).  This time watch the tie rod end both outter and inner and look for excessive movement inside the tie rod ends (DO NOT confuse this with the natural movement of the steering system that WILL be evident as the steering does not LOCK whent he car is off or anything.  So there will be some fluid motion but you are looking for jerky motion in the tie rod ends).  After doing one side repeat the process on the other side.  If there are any of these that have play in them then that will also be causing some of your problem.  I would have to say you likely have a rotor problem BUT this will be easier and cheaper for you to test AND it may need done anyways ;)
Eclipseprince
1/13/2007 7:37:15 PM
thanks will do
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