clutch plz help (updated) x2

hi all, today i noticed it was really hard shifting into gears! So i opened my clutch fliud resivaur and noticed it was empty. So i added some DOT-4 fliud to it but it didnt really help. Then i went onder the dash and looked and i noticed that theres a metal rod that goes into a rubber piece thats in my fire wall had fliud leaking and was running down the inside of my fire wall. Does any one know were i should begin trying to fix this? Ok apon ferther inpsection i found out its called a master cyclinder and were the rod goes in the rubber the hole is reamed out like it was cut or something and my clutch peddel goes all the way to the floorboard!

You are just going to have to replace it then.

yea, that is definatley the master cylinder, and there is nothing to do but replace it..

ok i found a kit for the master cyclender http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BAR&MfrPartNumber=0717957&PartType=235&PTSet=A does any one think that this can help im straped for cash?

that should, the round rubber piece is normally what leaks but although it is cheaper, it will be more of a pain in the ass to do than buy a new one

thanks do you think that fixing or replaceing the master cyclinder will stop my peddel from going to the floor or is that an adjustment that i need to make?

Having a bad Master cylinder will cause the clutch pedal to go to the floor. So yes replacing it should fix it

Thank you all for your help. Ill get the kit and try to repair the cyclinder tomarrow. Ill post on how it went.

Ok i have another question about my clutch before i get started. I have a 98 rs and in order to start my car i have to push my clutch all the way in. But heres the thing my clutch every since i got the car a couple months ago, goes all the way to the floor and i have to push it down there pretty hard to get the car to start when i turn the key. Now when i fix my master cyclinder some one said the pedal wont go to the floor any more if thats true will my car still start? i dont see a button or any thing on the pedal arm that would get pushed in order for the car to start. so does any one know how the car knows the clutch is pushed in enuf to let the ignishion to work?

because it adjusts once u adjust ur clutch and there's nothing on the clutch pedal itself or the arm it's on the floor and once it hits that then it'll let you start it up it's called a neutral safety switch. I say don't worry about it cuz u'll be fine as long as you do everything else right you'll be good to go. I replaced a master cylinder on my buddies 99 gs and it was a pain in the a**, but didn't take too long at all

Thanks for the reply but im alittle confused. If the pedal stops going to the floor and the switch is in the floor how will it get pushed... b/c it doesnt seem like the clutch is suposed to go all the way to the floor its causing un natrual waer on my carpet.

i always had a spot on my carpet from my clutch pedal going to the floor. Its normal

Thanks and thank god for this comunity, if it wasnt for this site and the ppl on it i dont know if i would still be putting up with my DSM's $#!+ Lots has gone wrong with it so far but nothing i couldent fix my self. Before this clutch problem my car over heated in a parking lot and dumped coolant all over the ground. Its a shame to see such a pretty car in dire straits like that. After tinkering i found out my radiator fan wasnt working. And it blew the cap off of my overfill. Thats allso the point of time i realized that my car didnt have a dummy light for over heating. So now i watch my temp gauge as much if not more than my speedomiter. Any way replaced the fan moter and problem fixed. My last Question before i go out and do this is... When i fix master cyclinder i have to bleed the lines right? Well i read on here that theres something called a bleeder valve can some one plz tell me were thats located? And am i going to be able to bleed the lines my self? the only ones here is me, my pos dsm, and my laptop.

sorry but you need two people to bleed the clutch fluid. One to open and close the valve and the other to be pumping the pedal until stiff. The bleeder valve is a bolt located on the slave cylinder under the car toward the middle. This is a nice write up that has the bleeding proceedure
http://www.plymouthlaser.com/slave2.htm
 
Here is the general idea:
1. Fill fluid resevior
2. Make sure bleeder is closed
3. Open and have person press clutch pedal to floor and hold.
4. Then close valve and raise pedal.
 
Then just repeat this till the clutch pedal is fully firm.
 
Also make sure to check every so often that you have enough fluid still in the resevior and fill as needed.
 
 

Ok, here is how my experiance went. I got the master cyclinder repair kit spent all night reparing the cyclinder and put it back on the car. All of wich was a pain in the @$$. Only to realize it leaked is now worse than before. So i had to go out and buy a new MC (75 bucks) and install it after bleeding lines it worked great. So beware of of the master cyclinder repair kit's that are linked in my first post thay are $#!+. But all is well now thanks for the help in my situation.

Im glad everything worked out.

thanks sebba, but im a dumb @$$ when i repaired the old MC i put the piston in piston first spring last it needed to be turned around to spring first piston last. So the kit did work i fixed the original MC and took the after market one back. I lied and said it leaked so i could get my 75 bucks back. I know its getto but im a broke bitch. And the repaired MC had better compresion and made the clutch stiffer than the aftermarket one i got that was from tiewan! So basicaly the kits work. dumb @$$'s beware the kit comes with no intructions and the piston goes in the cyclinder spring first!

Gotta do what you gotta do : )