ECU Replaced...now what?

OK, i finally got my ECU in the mail yesturday and I put in the New one today. I read on another forum that It takes a little bit for the car to reconize the new ECU. How long does it take? I took a 5 minute drive around the block, and it runs better than the old ECU, but still doesn't run like it should. Will it take a few drives around the block, a day of driving, ??

thanks!

you should let it idle for 5-15 mins

ok, i'll go let it idle

Ok reset the ECU and drive it around for a while. Dont go WOT for 15 mins.

why did you get a new ECU?

what's WOT?

wide open throttle, aka dont floor it

how do you reset the ECU?

take off the negative battery terminal for a couple mins

awww Brilliant. Ok, i'll let it idle for the 15 minutes and if that doesn't seem to work i'll reset the ECU

nah dude. Dissconnec the batery for an hour. Then let it idle for 3-5 mins and drive it around for 10. Dont go WOT untill 15 mins.

i dont think hes got to do it for an hour, whenever i reset mine so my CEL goes out i disconnect it for 30seconds. Just to be safe, do it for 5 mins

What happens if you WOT it? out of curiosity

It wont idle properly or drive properly

mmm fun. Well now I've got a bigger problem at hand. mitsubishi told me that it was my ECU that wasn't allowing my car to run properly. So finally I've fixed the ECU. Let the car idle for about 5 minutes after resetting the ECU and then carefully drove it around town for about 15-20 minutes and it runs better but still doesn't run correctly. It's like there isn't enough air or fuel getting into the engine to spool up the turbo. but when the turbo does spool the car moves. so this is getting annoying.

When at a stopped position, w/ clutch in and first gear, i'll do the seasaw motion w/ the feet (letting off clutch as gas goes down) but the car jumps from 2 rpm to almost idle position as the let out the clutch and give it some gas. I have to couter it by adding more gas pedal and pushing the clutch back in a little.

whats wrong with my car????

Ok with letting the ECU adjust its gonna take more than a reset and an idle. It might take a day or two of driving before it figures everything out.

And i dont understand your issue in the second part, your idle drops when your letting out the clutch? Thats not a problem.

Thats just your driving lol

quote:

ORIGINAL: Sebba

Thats just your driving lol

Meh lol.

How is the car now btw? Any change?

quote:

ORIGINAL: Sebba

Meh lol.

How is the car now btw? Any change?

Are you talking to me, and if so do you mean my elantra. If that the case then yes no change. Havnt gotten around to painting the stuff yet. But ive been driving my MR2 lately so it doent bother me

OK i've been driving clutch for about 4 years now, and I do know what happens when you let out the clutch. Here's how i'll explain it, if you drive stick, next time you're in your car, let it idle and let the clutch out in first gear. Stalls duuuh. OK, now as you let out the clutch push down on the gas petal. ooooooo the car moves forward. OK, here's my problem, the clutch comes out, the gas petal goes down, the car doesn't go anywhere. the car stalls as the rpms drop.

another thing. Sit in your car and let it idle in neutral. now push hard on the gas petal. the car goes VRROOOM and the rpms go up. duhh.
My car, i push hard on the gas petal, the rpms raise at most 1 rpm and the car bogs and doesn't go any higher.


Its not my driving

so your saying you have lost low end tq?

thats a new one on me

Thats is screaming boost leak somewhere.... a boost leak will do exactly that to you and so will bad plugs and wires

but Emonz, i had a boost leak. When i had the boost leak the car would spool up just fine and then once it hit a certain PSI the car would go (ppttfffddd) and felt like i hit a wall. This seems different. But i will def, check all my connections later.