Fuel Rail

hey guys. My car is in the shop 2 get my 255 walbro high pressure fuel pump and my Aeromotive FPR kit I just recieved from Slowboy. I couldn't do it myself because its so freakin cold outside and they get mad when you work on your car outside in your appt. parking lot. I had a cheap aftermarket fuel rail that I went ahead and give them 2 install because I figured it would be better than stock. I get a call a min. ago and they said once they got it all hooked up fuel was "pissin" out of the fuel rail. So what I'm saying is will the stock fuel rail be ok?...and can you still adjust fuel pressure?..He said with the stock one he couldn't adjust it as needed..He would have 2 set it and then leave it alone?..I figured I would ask the true experts?...Does this sound correct?...I hope I explained it well and didn't ramble on. Thank You guys for your help!

Forgot to mention I drive a 97gst with a 1st gen 7-bolt.

you said an adjustable FPR so yes it still can be adjusted on the stock rail. i was going to use a aeromotive AFRP on my stock rail and it would have worked fine.

All right!...i appreciate the info. I'm not sure why hes sayin that. Well I should get it back 2moro and it should be fairly easy 2 set.Correct?...

yea its simple to set. When you set it im not sure which setting you need at idle because you have a 2g but with a 1g engine. Because its still a 7-bolt im gonna assume using the 2g # of 35psi for a setting. But in case thats not it, the 1g setting its 27 psi

Thanx a lot...i wasn't even thinking about that. Also I kno there is 3 settings so at idle prolly 35psi. and what for the other 2?...at full boost what should it be?...im only running 10 because im still in break in and im a noob and tryin 2 monitor the crank too see if its goin 2 start walking. When It was put in everything fit it factory specs.

to my knowledge you only really use the FPR to set the fuel pressure for idle and not at different boost levels. I think at boost levels it should already be fine. But just to give you an idea. At 10psi of boost your fuel pressure should be around 54psi

+1 psi on the regulator for every +1psi of boost.

JLH, I would stick with the stock fuel rail, it can handle quite a bit of fuel before needing to upgrade it...unless, it's just for bling. 
As for setting the AFPR, the vacuum line needs to be removed before setting it btw.  Once the vacuum tube is put back on, it will drop to your motor's normal psi. 
I'm wondering why you have a 1G 7 bolt motor.  Are you sure about that?  It's an odd motor to swap into a 2G, unless you saw that blog awhile back about using a 1G 7 bolt block, if you did, I'd like to hear more about this.  Anyway, for a 1G motor it should be set at 37psi and for a 2G motor it should be set at 43psi...both are set with the vacuum tube off.

my guess is it has a 1g 7-bolt becuase the person who did the swap needed an engine to drop in and that is what he could find cheap.

Well all that was wrong with it was the o ring had a split in it...so new o ring and it was all good...i got my stock one 2 put back on it if I have any problems,yea silvercoupe basically I crankwalked my engine and I live in a  2bedroom appt. with strict rules on working on vehicles so I was in a bind and NOBODY would do the 6-bolt swap....so I decided well I'll find a mildly built 7bolt from a 1st gen 2 see if it walks.I drove 13 hours 2 Maryland 2 get it. I'll be monitoring it often 2 see if the crank cums out of spec. The engine block was assembled back in 04 and it just now has about 500miles on it, and as of 2day specs are perfect but I hope I got a rare one thats not goin 2 walk.

Well ive develped a fuel leak.....tha car is still at the shop and they said fuel is leaking around where the fpr is put 2gether. Guess I gotta call Slowboy 2moro. They said everything is tight but its just seeping out all the way around it....Then they tell me i have fluid in my floor board..and my clutch master cylinder needs replacing. Is this something I should let them replace or could I manage it?....i did some research and it seems that I should replace the slave also and make sure i bleed the lines and I should be able 2 tackle this. Im just so frustrated. When I get one thing fixed another seems 2 break.

ah the life of owning a DSM . Yea you should be able to do the master cylinder yourself.