Got Owned

What’s up? Was just wondering if anyone got the chance to race the new Jeep Cherokee SRT-8’s? Cause I recently sold some of the aftermarket stuff on my car, simply to implement a new setup. But I wanted to see how fast the srt8’s really was, and I was surprised. I got owned! I got him on the launch but then he jus sneaked up and passed me. We also raced from a 20mph roll, all the way to 140mph but he got me as well, he was always a car and a half ahead of me. It was fun, but with the new setup I’m going after things should be different the next time we race.

yeah those things move, my friend test drove one. what kind of setup you doing? and what kind of mods did you have when you raced it?

Yes, the Jeep SRT-8 is a pretty quick car.  It clicks off the quarter mile in 13.5 with a 0-60 time of 5.2 seconds.  If you get a tune you should be able to launch ahead and then hold him through the quarter mile.  Watch out for the SRT-8's!!

Well when I raced him I already went back to stock. The mods that I had was a manual boost controller, AFC, cat back exhaust , and all that stuff was already off when we raced.
I'm going for a more reliable and low profile setup. I honestly never liked the manual boost controller and the AFC. I'm goanna
get a my ECU reprogrammed.  (according to the atmospheric pressure in this state, Colorado), and also according to the additional mods I will also be doing). I'm also getting a different exhaust system, something like Cobb tuning 3" TBE. I'm also looking into 272 intake and exhaust cams. I'm still doing research but I just want the car to be clean, fast, and not noisy. I'll give updates as well as asking for advice gradually.

 

quote:

ORIGINAL: lhausi2

yeah those things move, my friend test drove one. what kind of setup you doing? and what kind of mods did you have when you raced it?

Yeah that’s my main focus this time around, as much as I hated the manual boost controller and the AFC, I just had to try them out and I hated it. But I need some additional advice as well, I know I talked to you about the ECU and we both agreed that WORKS was exactly what I was looking for. But what’s the difference between taking my car to a shop and having them dyno tune the car according to the mods that I will eventually have, and even to the atmospheric pressure in this state? In simple terms,  what’s the difference between a dyno tune at the local shop versus mailing my ECU to WORKS and having them reprogram it?
 
 

quote:

ORIGINAL: XTREME

Yes, the Jeep SRT-8 is a pretty quick car.  It clicks off the quarter mile in 13.5 with a 0-60 time of 5.2 seconds.  If you get a tune you should be able to launch ahead and then hold him through the quarter mile.  Watch out for the SRT-8's!!

The difference is youu need to find a dyno that knows how to reprogram the ecu well enough that they will do as good a job as a place like dynoflash or works. Also with WORKS they will reprogram to new mods when a dyno will charge you again to have it reprogrammed usually
 
However, if you know a dyno that is good then having it dynoflashed is always gonna be better than a main-in.

the difference is that when you mail it in they can adjust it to the mods you have. but as we all know every car is different and every car reacts a little different to the mods, they just do a according to their book a standard tune. so if you take it to a shop to get tuned it'll come out way better and most the time it's noticable. because they can tune it towards your car and your mods, not just the mods.

quote:

ORIGINAL: TheEngineer

The difference is youu need to find a dyno that knows how to reprogram the ecu well enough that they will do as good a job as a place like dynoflash or works. Also with WORKS they will reprogram to new mods when a dyno will charge you again to have it reprogrammed usually

However, if you know a dyno that is good then having it dynoflashed is always gonna be better than a main-in.

Dynoflash the company is not a good place.  Al freedman the owner works with buschur BUT he tends to down talk customers and ive met alot of people who are not happy with end results do to his flashes

quote:

ORIGINAL: Mike21

Yeah that’s my main focus this time around, as much as I hated the manual boost controller and the AFC, I just had to try them out and I hated it. But I need some additional advice as well, I know I talked to you about the ECU and we both agreed that WORKS was exactly what I was looking for. But what’s the difference between taking my car to a shop and having them dyno tune the car according to the mods that I will eventually have, and even to the atmospheric pressure in this state? In simple terms,  what’s the difference between a dyno tune at the local shop versus mailing my ECU to WORKS and having them reprogram it?

 
Mike21, if you get a mail-in tune it will be more conservative and therefore safer for the car.  However, if you have some type of logging software to keep track of knock, and maybe a boost gauge then a custom dyno tune wouldn't be such a bad idea.  However, if you get a mail-in tune they will reflash your ECU free of charge, where you will be charged another $400.00 - $700.00 everytime you want a custom tune.  So if you have a custom tune, then purchase some parts, you now have to drop another $400.00 - $700.00 dollars for another custom tune.  Me personally, I would get a custom tune once you change out the turbo and/or get injectors because those parts change the characteristics of your car drastically.  I'm considering a custom tune now that I added an FP green turbo and injectors.  So there is some info....

the idea of a mail in is to stay conservitive but you don't know if it is or not. on a dyno you will know. I would always recommend a dyno or custom road tne way before a mail in however the tuner make a huge difference as well. I am on a mail in with a 50trim setup that should be capible of 118mph traps but because I'm only on a mail in my car is losing some and I was only trapping a best of 114.6. so now this spring I plan to hit the dyno because of that. if you plan to run the stock turbo for a long time then a mail in will yeild much better results than an evo with heavy mods like mine or xtremes

So Mike21, I would say go with a mail-in because you'll be adding parts for a while and the reflashes are free.  No, you won't produce as much power but you will save money on retunes.  Once you have your Evo to the setup you desire for an extended period of time then get a custom road tune. 
 
Somewhere down the road it would also be advisable to get logging software such as MitsuLogger or EvoScan to see if you have any knock regardless if it's a custom road tune or mail-in tune.

 Thanks for all the info guys, I'll be able to make a decision as far as what route I'll take when it comes to the ECU. I already ordered my exhaust system, so now I'm getting ready to order my 255lph fuel pump. would you guys recomend cams? 

If you're running 91 octane most tuners say you won't see much of an increase in power with cams.  If you're running higher than 91 octane then getting cams would definitely be a wise modification.  However, get a set of cams that are going to fit your turbo.  If you are sticking with the stock turbo, EvoGreen, and possibly a 50 trim I would recommend staying under 270 degrees of duration unless you're going to run race gas everyday.  If you plan on going to a higher than a 50 trim I would recommend a 272 to 280 duration cam.  In general, make sure the cams match the size of your turbo.....research....research.  As far as what company to get your cams from there are quite a few to choose from.  I went with the GSC S1 cams.

yeah I got plans for the EvoGreen turbo in the near future. I was originally looking at the 272 cams but I'll take your word for it and stay under 270 . What size cams do u have exactly? and are you runing with the EvoGreen or the stock 20G?
 

quote:

ORIGINAL: XTREME

If you're running 91 octane most tuners say you won't see much of an increase in power with cams.  If you're running higher than 91 octane then getting cams would definitely be a wise modification.  However, get a set of cams that are going to fit your turbo.  If you are sticking with the stock turbo, EvoGreen, and possibly a 50 trim I would recommend staying under 270 degrees of duration unless you're going to run race gas everyday.  If you plan on going to a higher than a 50 trim I would recommend a 272 to 280 duration cam.  In general, make sure the cams match the size of your turbo.....research....research.  As far as what company to get your cams from there are quite a few to choose from.  I went with the GSC S1 cams.

if you plan to get a Green then get 272s.  The drivablitiy is not bad on them unless you get GSC they are actually a little more than 272s.  I have a split combo HKS 272/264 the can love them.  Def a good chunk of power behind them.  although HKS cams are overprced for the same technology as others