log

Ok, I am wondering what my timing should look like while driving... In second it will start out at about 23(3400rpm), (around full boost) it will drop to 8/9(4500rpm) and then right before I shift into third it will be up around 45(5600rpm). Then in third it looks good until about 4k... it will then drop down to 0/-1 (knock?!?!). So another question I would have is why am I knocking in third and not second? Is timing in second at a good range? This pull was on 15psi. Any help would be great...

have you looked at your A/F ratio in 3rd gear above 4k? you are probably running lean.

it varies between 1.01 and 1.03.... isnt that rich?! or close to "right" (thats not the correct word)

quote:

ORIGINAL: 92_laser

it varies between 1.01 and 1.03.... isnt that rich?! or close to "right" (thats not the correct word)

your A/F ratio varies between 1.01 and 1.03? that can't be right. are you sure thats not your boost(in bars)? your A/F ratio should run between 10.2-11.2:1 at WOT, 14.7:1 at idle/closed loop operation

quote:

ORIGINAL: 92_laser

it varies between 1.01 and 1.03.... isnt that rich?! or close to "right" (thats not the correct word)

that is my o2-r reading in volts... im not sure what the conversion would be. I dont have wideband...

THanks for your feedback

what injectors are you running and what are you tuning with, an SAFC?

as for your log, you will get more knock/pull more timing in 3rd because you are in a given rpm range longer than in second.

when you log, you should do a full throttle 3rd gear pull from 2k-redline.

watch timing, as you hit full boost around 3500rpm, timing should drop to around 6-8 degrees, this is your ecu protecting the engine against knock from the sudden increase in air pressure. it should then slowly climb all the way to 16 degrees by redline, and if you have big injectors it may climb as high as 22+ degrees.

since you have a 1g you can log knock too, so make sure you have no knock, if you do, try richening it up, 15psi should not cause any knock.

ignore the o2volts, a narrowband o2 sensor is only accurate withion a very small window and by no means sufficient to tune off of. as long as your timing is increasing you will be fine

quote:

ORIGINAL: 92_laser

quote:

ORIGINAL: 92_laser

it varies between 1.01 and 1.03.... isnt that rich?! or close to "right" (thats not the correct word)

that is my o2-r reading in volts... im not sure what the conversion would be. I dont have wideband...

THanks for your feedback

if you are within the "right window" your o2 volts should read around .96v but focus on knock and timing curve

ok, so it is probably too rich in third?? I am still running my stock injectors until I can get my maf-t installed and then Im going to put my 560's back in. BTW, I am not tuning yet.... thats why I need to install my maf-t.

quote:

ORIGINAL: 92_laser

ok, so it is probably too rich in third?? I am still running my stock injectors until I can get my maf-t installed and then Im going to put my 560's back in. BTW, I am not tuning yet.... thats why I need to install my maf-t.

you are most likely running lean, not rich. running too lean will cause knock. i would suggest getting something to tune it before you start driving it again.

you said that you are still using the stock injectors, right? how much boost are you running?

if you are running stock injectors and nothing to tune with, then there isnt really anything you can do anyway except adjust boost. your timing should drop to around 6-8 like i said, then climb linearly to 16 degrees by redline. if it does then you ahve nothing to worry about. its hard to get 0 knock all the time, but as long as you are getting less than 10 counts of knock you will be fine. if you are getting more than that you may be running crappy gas, too high boost (although 15psi should not be too high), or have a cylinder(s) than run hotter than the others. look at your plugs, are they white , or grey, or black? and you may also have a boost leak with such a high 02 voltage

I will check the plugs tonight when I get off work. As for the boost leak wouldnt my gauge spike if I had a leak?

quote:

ORIGINAL: 92_laser

I will check the plugs tonight when I get off work. As for the boost leak wouldnt my gauge spike if I had a leak?

no. boost leak would just make you run rich. if its a small leak you may not even notice it, its its moderate your car will still boost normal, but it will feel slower, almost hesitant, like something is slipping. if its bad, your car will sputter under full boost and wont accelerate well. you boost gauge will still read normal though, it will be something you feel

This is my 3rd gear pull.... the only difference is I turned the boost down to 11 instead of 15

RPM KNCK O2-R TIMA

2000 0 .7v 23
2100 0 .13v 21
2218 2 .78v 21
2312 1 .87v 18
2406 1 .89v 18
2500 0 .87v 19
2656 0 .89v 18
2718 6 .89v 13
2812 6 .89v 12
2906 5 .89v 12
3000 5 .89v 11
3156 4 .89v 12
3312 4 .89v 15
3437 3 .91v 16
3562 8 .91v 15
3687 9 .91v 14
3812 8 .91v 14
3906 7 .91v 15
4031 7 .91v 14
4125 6 .91v 15
4218 6 .91v 17
4406 6 .91v 16
4593 5 .91v 16
4687 4 .91v 17
4781 4 .91v 17
4875 4 .91v 19
4937 3 .91v 19
5187 3 .91v 19
5218 2 .91v 18
5375 1 .91v 20
5406 1 .91v 21
5513 0 .91v 23
5718 0 .91v 23
5781 0 .91v 24

It looks to me that I am running lean all the way accross the board... what do you guys think/input???
Thanks in advance

does your car feel slower than it shoudl be to you? my vote is for boost leak. the stock ecu is designed to max out at 16 degrees of timing by redline. the only way to get 24 is if it sees less air coming in, and that could happen because of using an SAFC to trick it, or having a leak. check all your intake/ic hoses carefully, make sure they are connected tight and if you have any rubber ones, that there arent any tears in them

i dont think it looks lean. i just remembered you have a 1g. while 2g's usually have their o2v around .94, 1g's read around .88-.9v so dont worry about that.

I will check that this weekend and give you an update... thanks for the reply

my vote? get something that can tune the car just to make sure that you are running a good a/f ratio.

I checked all the charge pipes last night and found no leaks.... other then my bov but that always leaks doesnt it?! Is there anything else that could leak? I might pull my intercooler out tomorrow and check it

bov sould not leak until you let off the gas this is the only time presure sould be purged.

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ORIGINAL: 92_laser

I checked all the charge pipes last night and found no leaks.... other then my bov but that always leaks doesnt it?! Is there anything else that could leak? I might pull my intercooler out tomorrow and check it

thats a known problem with the 2G stock BOV. the 1G BOV is not known to leak.

mine is a 1g and when I capped off one end and pressurized the other it opened and released the pressure

quote:

ORIGINAL: 92_laser

mine is a 1g and when I capped off one end and pressurized the other it opened and released the pressure

sounds like what a BOV is designed to do. the way you are describing it, thats not a leak. thats exactly what its suppose to do.

when trying to find leaks you cant just look, you need to do a boost leak test. vfaq.com tells you how to. you need to pressurize your intake system and listen for any hissing, much like you would check for a flat tire hole.

as for who voted that you get something to tune your car with, i would not do that. first off, the car should be able to run fine on stock injectors with no tuning needed. if its not, then you need to find out why and fix it, instead of just complicating things.

Thanks DSMTalonAWD51. I checked all the pipes individually last night and then were fine. Now I will be doing the full intake system test as soon as I get a chance(its been in the teens the past couple days and it just started snowing ). Is there any other things it could possibly be?