New car break in clarification

After reading thru the posts regarding new motor break in I am still not 100% sure about how to proceed. I am still a bit sceptable about this artical ( http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm  )since i have found no other information to back it up except what i have read on this board. Even did a search on the "car talk" website and only found comments to the contrary.
 
I will be taking delivery of my GTS CVT tomorrow, and it will be fresh off the truck w/ no miles. 

I will have about a 150 mile drive from the dealer to my house thru the high dessert ( some curvy mountain peaks and long straights). 

If I understand correctly, i should drive hard in 2nd or 3rd gear for the first 20miles.  Then make sure I moderate my speeds for the next 180 miles?  Unfortuanetly i will not be able to change the oil until 130 miles or so. Is this about it or am i missing something?

Also, please define "running hard" does this mean i shoud take to redline?

Don't push the car.
Just take it easy for the first 1,000 miles.

Take it easy around 65 mph
 
that is what I did and no problems WITH MY CAR except for
 
the stupid mechanic who installed my steering wheel screwed it up. instead of just replacing the cover for airbag switch on the bottom of the steering rack he replaced the whole steering wheel and left a socket inside the steering wheel column. I told the Manager and he was very very mad at the technician.
 
WARNING Do not hit the cover under the steering column it will break if hit it with your Knee

**** sake, if you know little about the topic dont comment. (sorry josh)
 
This break in secrets i have followed and proven on a number of occasions PERSONALLY. I will follow no other break in proceedure.

Josh I thought you were suppose to push the car hard at first so everything will set correctly.

To be a little more specific, putting a load on the engine is needed

It goes like this....high load, engine brake, cool off...rinse and repeat while going up in gears and you'll seat those rings right and right now and not later when the crosshatch marks on the cylinder walls have shimmed off enough to leak oil into the cylinders when the motor is "old", not to mention it will give you the lower end of the "serviceable" compression specs when done the traditional way.
You don't go full blast full load all day long btw.

I've done this 3 times. 
My 97 Avenger when it was new, my wife's 05 caravan when it was new (though the wife didn't know it, lol), and my 4g63 after it was rebuilt (in 05). 
My Avenger motor (6g73) had no oil in the chamber/pistons after 125k miles on it, never burn oil.  I literally gave away a good 6g73!  My wife's van runs strong and so does my 4g63.  Chambers/pistons are still free of oil.
My dad broke his 80-something Mercury Capri the old easy way and that thing had issues with compression and burning oil.  My moms Saturn runs really weak, and my dad's new Hyundai SUV will too because they broke them in easy.

Motoman's method is tried and true, in my cases and Sebz, + more from other forums.  What's the worst that can happen?  The rings don't seat right?  You won't blow up the motor from this method.

I won't hesitate to do it again with any new vehicle I get.  It's worked out great for 3 vehicles and it only takes a few runs...not a few easy thousand miles.

In the end you'll do what you will and that's fine.  This is just my suggestion anyhow

Actually on another forum I've read from a lot of people that you should go easy on the first 1,000 miles miles... some people were pushing it hard and ended up f'ing up their cars and taking it back into for checkups at their dealerships...

When I bought my 2005 F-150 brand new, I was told to just take it easy for the first 3k.
Maybe the break in is different on a V8 than a 4 cyl.

Oh I am sorry Sebba I didn't know that I can offend some people like you.
 
 
It is really depends on the Owner of the car if he wants to drive it hard or not
Because it's his car. No matter what we advise him it is really up to him to listen or not
 
On my Lancer I drove hard than soft. I didn't drive rough all the time.
 
I gave my engine a break go rough for short time and slow after that....
 
If you notice after driving very hard on a car.
The engine SHAKES A LOT on idle. 
If you didn't noticed that there is nothing more I can say.
 
You are gonna drive the car rough anyway after 1,000 miles
So,why do we have to rush,,,making it a rough ride for a brand new engine on the first 1,000 miles?
 
 

AKILEZ,  so you are saying that if broken in motormans meathod, the car will idle rough?  And if broken in easy it will not? I"m not necesarrily looking for more HP, just a good reliable car for years to follow.

quote:

ORIGINAL: AlexKing805

Actually on another forum I've read from a lot of people that you should go easy on the first 1,000 miles miles... some people were pushing it hard and ended up f'ing up their cars and taking it back into for checkups at their dealerships...

It almost sounds to me that like those folks rode it too hard for too long?  If you read what I previously posted and what motoman stated, you'll see that you go in steps and not full on full blast. 
What does your statement mean anyway, Alex?  This is so vague.  It almost sounds like you're trying to imply that their motors blew up or something.  If you only know half the story, don't try to tell the whole story by filling in the blank spots.  That's how misinformation comes about.

I put my rebuilt motor on a 400-500 mile trip shortly after it was running.  Then again, after my car was brought to me, I got on it a few times like motoman's way before getting on the interstate. 
If you've been around motors long enough, you can tell what a smooth running motor feels like.  My motor is pretty smooth, even with the balance shaft removed.
...and again, so is my wife's van with a 3.8L V6.  It doesn't matter what motor you have.  Motoman's method is based on dirtbikes.
Why your motor ran rough at idle is beyond me, maybe you did something different, maybe you just needed to change your oil or plugs...I couldn't tell you.

Here's the point motoman's method....to seat the rings before the crosshatch get worn down by the rings unevenly.  If you read that article, then you'd understand it a little better and why you don't go full on.
What's the point of taking it easy on the motor?  Why do you drive it easy the first several miles?  What's different about day 1 as opposed to 3 years after buying the car when driving your car is concerned?
It's the same thing with the barrel of my guns.  Factory states to heat cycle before shooting many rounds through them...pfft, I shot 500 rounds through my 40 cal the first day I got it.  My glock is still as accurate now as it was that day (I'm not saying that my aim was/is though, lol).  I don't get why I have to heat cycle it because it was done at the factory many times before even getting put together. 
When I buy something new, it will do what it's supposed to do the first day.  Otherwise, I consider it to have a manufacturer defect and if that's the case, it needs to go back.

What are you guys afraid of cycling the motor in this way?
Josh, I'm hoping you've done it to your new car.

OP, I'm sorry to get on my soapbox bro.  I'm not trying to convince you do this method, I'm just telling you that I've done it and I've seen the easy method done and that the easy method does not mean that the motor will last forever or even for the next 10 years, it just means that the rings will eventually seat, but not before the crosshatch is worn down (easy method).

Drive it like you stole it. Motoman's method works.

quote:

ORIGINAL: AKILEZ
On my Lancer I drove hard than soft. I didn't drive rough all the time.

I gave my engine a break go rough for short time and slow after that....

If you notice after driving very hard on a car.
The engine SHAKES A LOT on idle. 
If you didn't noticed that there is nothing more I can say.

You are gonna drive the car rough anyway after 1,000 miles
So,why do we have to rush,,,making it a rough ride for a brand new engine on the first 1,000 miles?

OP, no he's not saying that doing the fast break in will cause you motor to run rough.  He's just saying that there might be something wrong with his motor...haha.  No really, that's your ECU/sensors trying to get the idle right.  It's catching up if you will.  I notice that with my motor.....only when I go from a higher RPM and a load to idle and no load.  An example of this is getting off the interstate/highway and instead of keeping the tranny in gear and letting the motor help slow you down until the RPMs are closer to idle RPMs, you put it into neutral.  You've just violently dropped the RPMs, that's a shock to the ECU/sensors....don't you think?
If you're talking about automatics..I call BS, unless you drop it into neutral from a higher RPM.
However, if you're noticing your motor shaking a lot.  You might need new motor mounts.

Besides, you're not rushing anything but seating the rings and you're not even rushing that.  You're forcing them to seat evenly.

It is really up to you. You can drive it the way they told you if you know how to do it or just drive it the way you wanted to be.
 
I drive mine rough but not all the time.....good luck
 
 

It goes like this....high load, engine brake, cool off...rinse and repeat while going up in gears and you'll seat those rings right and right now and not later when the crosshatch marks on the cylinder walls have shimmed off enough to leak oil into the cylinders when the motor is "old", not to mention it will give you the lower end of the "serviceable" compression specs when done the traditional way.
You don't go full blast full load all day long btw.
 
I understand not to drive like this all day, but how does this translate into miles?  200 miles hard- (oil change)-  then 800 easy?

for me I drive hard meaning driving it very fast for awhile and then I drive it slow after 15 to 25 minutes of driving fast 80 mph and then 65 mph.
 
1st gear rpm should be on 4000 then change gear to 2nd with the same rpm rate... do that with all gears until you reach 5th gear then drive it fast.
 
it work for me it should work for you. just rest the engine after driving fast meaning slow driving again.

I'm changing my cars every 3 years and they have 180 000 + miles on it after i'm done with them. I purchased 6 new cars since 2000. I drive 60 - 65 000 miles a year. I drive them like i stole them. I like to push it sometimes too. Take it easy first 1000 miles, but once in a while step on it. After 1000 miles just drive it . Why you want to change oil aftr 150 miles or so ? That's just waste of money. I never change oil sooner than 5000 miles, any car. Right now i own 08 Lancer GTS ( 5 speed ) with 20 000 miles on it and 07 Outlander with 7500 miles on it. Guys, you pampering those cars to much.