OK READ THIS AND THIS IS PROOF THAT THE SWAP WILL WORK AND I ALSO SAT THE HEAD ON THE BLOCK AND IT SEEMED TO LINE UP.
There are two goals of project 4G64. The first is to take a 2.4L (non-turbo) 4G64 engine block and combine it with a 4G63 (turbo) head. The result, a 2.4L turbo charged DSM! This is 20% more displacement than the stock 2.0L 4G63 block. The theory is that this this conversion is that simple - putting a 4G63 head on a 4G64 block with custom pistons. While I'm at it, I'm also going to upgrade the A/T with a shift kit and end clutch to give the transmission firmer shifting and more durability to handle all the power we'll be making. I'm also going to do as many mods and improvements that are "easy" to do while the engine is out, and many basic mods such as gauges, intake, and BOV. The second goal of Project 4G64 is to perform the 97+ Eclipse conversion on the body of a 95 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD A/T. This entails replacing the front and rear bumpers, headlights, and taillights.
The goal of this page is to document the entire process of the project including costs, vendors, and parts lists to provide guidance to anyone else who wants to do this. I'll try to be thorough and document all the little things that seem to crop up in big projects like this
4G64/4G63 HybridDetailed Plan:Purchase 4G64 long block from local junk yard. Strip it and take block to machine shop and have them order and install custom pistons and rods and fill oil holes. Also have machine shop port all intake manifold, exhaust manifold, O2 sensor housing, and whatever else makes sense. Sell leftover 4G64 engine parts on Ebay.
Purchase 1G 4G63 DOHC head, have it rebuilt and take it to machine shop to be installed on block.
Purchase 1G intake manifold, throttle body, and other parts as mentioned on
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1g2gheadswaptechtip.htm, and have machine shop modify 1G head for CAS.
Purchase and install instrument console bezel, boost gauge, EGT gauge, and boost controller.
Powder coat valve cover, jet hot coat (or similar) the exhaust manifold, heat shield and misc. other parts.
Journal
Notes I ended up with a 9.1:1 compression ratio with my setup.
The J&E Pistons are part number 201673 with a bore of 3.415, clearance of .0040, invdome depth of .245, comp dist of 1.385, and the pistons mass 344 grams. These figures are from the spec sheet I was given.
Frontier Machine shop will turn around heads and long blocks in just a few weeks. The reason it took so long on mine is I had them do a lot of custom stuff for the 1G head swap and there was a 6 week or more wait time for the custom pistons.
1G Head Swap issues not mentioned in RRE instructions:
Plan to extend 3 wires going to coil pack because of 1G location vs. 2G location.
You'll have to find a place to mount the 1G Transistor if you don't want to extend all of those wires.
There's a bracket with a bunch of small vacuum lines on the back of the 2G intake manifold/throttle body that will not mount to the 1G setup.
I fabricated a bracket to hold the 1G intake manifold, I do not know if the 1G bracket would have worked. Be sure to acquire the bracket with the manifold, I think it will work.
If I remember right, you'll have to grind a bit of the intake or engine mounting bracket to get the rear engine mounting bracket to mount up nicely.
You'll have to plug one of the large holes and one of the small holes on the 1G water neck. I used old sensors from the Galant engine I bought.
You will need the threaded nipple on the rear of the water neck to connect the water line going to the heater.
When pulling and installing the engine, it's easiest to do it with both the engine and tranny together.
The bushing inside of the crank is replaceable. It's hard to get out, but it must be done. Then your tranny will just bolt right into place.
