Parts and 1 Code! Help please

Okay, First off I have a 1998 Eclipse Spyder GS-T, with an Auto tranny.  My first question is,  I am missing the latch on the top right that holds the converitble top tightly shut, I don't know where to get one, and I'm not aware of any mitsubishi dealerships within an hour from here.  Was wondering if anyone knew of any other place that might have one?

Second question. My stock bov is shot, I've been told that the HKS ssqv will pretty much quite easily replace the stocker, Is that true? and if not what's the easiest to install. ( this is my daily driver I'm not planning any serious power to be made, I'd just like ot to be back in top shape )

Third question, My car pulls ONE code,:
P1105
Manufacurer Contrl. Fuel Air Metering.

 Is this something serious? or is this just a faulty o2 sensor?  Or something else? Any info or help is appreciated as I'm new to this car.

1. i think a junk yard is gonna end up being your best bet. Either try calling some around for your car. Or check here www.car-part.com also i think there is a mitsu graveyard site or something but i forget the exact URL.
 
2. If you just want something cheap and easy to fix it, get a stock 1g eclipse (1990-1994) BOV. They will use the same flange and they are stronger than the cheap plastic 2g one.
 
3. That code is ussually equated with the fuel pressure solenoid. Its located on the firewall i believe. Check here for a visual location of it http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/solenoids.htm

if the BOV is staying open wouldnt it cause a code like that?

nah i think its almost always the fuel pressure solenoid. And it will either be a bad connection or a bad solenoid

thanks much, now my question would be, how do i know if the solenoid is junk? Would it be best to just try and replace it?

and also, would that cause a problem with it having trouble starting in the cold? lately it takes me god an hour to start it. only when its cold though like it has been lately.

quote:

ORIGINAL: peregrinus

and also, would that cause a problem with it having trouble starting in the cold? lately it takes me god an hour to start it. only when its cold though like it has been lately.

Absolutely. Here is what you should do.
 
1. First check the connections to it and make sure they are hooked up correctly to the solenoid. Connect everything and reset the battery. If the code comes back then...
2. Check the solenoid to see if its functioning by applying a 12V on and off to the terminals of the solenoid, disconnect the vacuum hoses and check if the solenoid opens and closes with vacuum pump. If that is stil good then you have to start looking at other things that may be the problem.

i had that same code, and i checked it and tightened everything around it and went to autozone it check it again after reseting my car and it went away.  after that i figured out that my CEL went on because the person before i did left the oil pressure regulator in and it was not connected to anything, and i put a new one with a gauge the CEL turned off.

Well after spending 3 hours this morning trying to start it, i cleared the codes and drove around for 1-2 hours doing errands, and the code didn't pop back up yet, but it still doesn't explain why its starting so hard.

Well my questions for starting would be are you getting spark? And your FRS might still be bad, and the code could come back. Id say try the test on it to see if its working, because if its not then you might not be getting good fuel pressure at start

Well, it gets spark,turns over fine, and tries to fire, But it will do that over and over for however long, I am assuming its most likely a fuel issue.  Just turns over until the battery dies.  Where is the test port to check for fuel?

well i was saying to try the thing i posted on testing the Fuel Pressure solenoid first and see if thats working. Click the link i posted in the begining, it showed exactly where it is located.

Well i took it in, itll be there for a few days and i told them everything, hopefully they can figure it all out. thanks alot for the help! :) i really appreciate it.

okay, back from the shop, still have the code. lol  Best bet is to just replace it?

or is there any other problems associated to this code?

well what did the shop do?

changed my starter. lmao they didnt do anything i asked them to do they " ran out of time " but still had th eballs ot charge me $300, i was pissed.  So i'll try to fix it myself.

well like i said i still  think its related to the fuel pressure soleoid. But i wouldnt spend the money on it till you know it the problem by hooking a battery up to the terminals on it and seeing if it opens

Well, here's my thoughts on this.  It could be the FPR, the IAC, TPS, the FIAV or a combo of the three or all of the above, lol.  I don't think it's all of the above because it will start when it's already warmed up, so the FPR is doing it's job.  Now if you're not getting enough air or not enough air.......or......the computer thinks that it is getting enough or not enough........that leads to the IAC and TPS.  The TPS tells the computer the throttle plates position.  The FIAV (fast idle air valve) has a wax pellet that can also cause start up issues.  I lean more towards the IAC though.  That's the idle air controller.  It's also called an ISC, idle surge controller or idle speed controller.  Either way, it has a stepper motor that pushes or pulls a plunger that blocks or opens the air passage.  If it's open, it may cause the car to have a harder time starting.  During start up on cold days, it should be closed.  All four play an important role with start up and idle.  I think your starter was changed out because of all the stress that's put on it during the initial and cold starts and probably because it sounded bad trying to start it up..oh and it's probably the original starter.
You can check yours by following the VFAQ.

quote:

1. Remove the ISC connector. 
2. On the ISC side of the connector, you will see 6 pins (see picture). A top row of 3 and a bottom row of 3. 
3. With the car shut off, take a ohmmeter and check the resistance between these pins: 1&2, 2&3, 4&5, 5&6.
4. This checks the 4 different coils in the ISC that can go bad. If any of the values are GREATER than ~30 ohms (like in the kohm range), then you have a busted ISC and have to replace it. L
5. If they check out OK, then it isn't the ISC
6. Be sure to reattach the connector when done! I don't know how many times I forgot about that.

Does your car's idle surge at any point too?
Check your TPS from this link.
That's what I'm thinking.  I've gotta head out for a few and when I get back, I'll continue.  That up there should get you started though.  Oh and here's a random thought to piggy back John's thoughts.  Your fuel pump may not be sealing up anymore and thus taking you an hour to start your car.
Does it start "easier" on warmer days?

thanks for the input. Well the thing is he says it sat in a warm garage for a while and started up fine, so yea warmer days it should start fine for him. But the one thing that is confusing me is this code that he is getting p1105? You  think maybe it is coincidence that hes getting that code and the car is having a hard time starting. Like they are totally unrelated

It could be because the fuel froze up in the FPR or the down the line too.
If it is the fuel freezing, use a bottle of dry gas.

Yesh as, theengineer said, when its warm, or already warmed up, it starts perfectly fine. Idles great, its just when starting it freshly cold that it has an issue.

Still looking for advice, I'll be checking the sensor tomarrow as i will have some free time on my hands

The only other thing I can think of is a low charge battery or frozen cells...as in the battery can no longer discharge it's full capacity cold cranking amps when a cell or two is frozen or dead.  The thing about having low battery output is that it can cause your car to throw codes because it may seem like the sensor is detecting below ECU maps.

blah this is so troublsom :(