Performance Chip 07 Outtie

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/REAL-PERFORMANCE-CHIP-MITSUBISHI-OUTLANDER-2003-2007_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33597QQihZ013QQitemZ230197524368QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

My friend had one on his eclipse and recommended me one from the seller he bought. He said it boost his mpg and HP. So I had to get one.

But I have a few questions.

Where Can I locate the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor and the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) on the outtie?

Thanks.

I think I saw a similar product before, but that one was fake. Nothing more than a resistor inside. I hope this is not one of those...

the ad shows it fits the old outlander 2003-2007 you will void your mitsubish warranty and by running your engine leaner you will destroy your engine (pinking)
 
puddy

What I've read on these type of products is that they pretty much work by fooling the computer that the air is warm (warm air mess less oxygen) and the car will respond by delivering less fuel to keep the fuel:air ratio.  Since there is more air than the computer thinks, this leans out the fuel mixture (lean means power, but also early combustion) and when the engine senses the knock, it will retard the timing, which will negate any benefit..

You also may start throwing error lights codes..which show up for about anything on an OBDII computer..and then if you ever take it in, they will see the knock, investigate, and find the mods..even if the light goes away, the codes are stored.

Too good to be true usually is.  If a manufacturer could easily, cheaply, and safely get another 1-4 MPG while upping HP..they'd do it.

You're very likely going to void your warranty on any problem could remotely be related to any system you're modifying


Red Flag 1:  They list 2003-2007 as the model shown (obviously not)

Red Flag 2:  They say they tested these on 'your' engine.  Which engine?  2003?  2006?  2007?  all different.

Red Flag 3:  Look at their feedback...at least half give good ratings WITHOUT trying it in their vehicle..and then half of those that tried it say that they had no change..so then you're looking at 1/4 positive results..

Red Flag 4:  Do you really think they test every engine, when they offer this for pretty much every vehicle made?  Do they have any dyno sheets to prove it?
 
Red Flag 5:  7 Mutually withdrawn ratings..that tells me that this seller uses negative feedback as a weapon against receiving negative feedback.  I'd bet that they NEVER leave feedback first, even though the buyer completes their duties first. 

Plus with it getting cold now, it can make your car stall out when you try and start it in the morning when its really cold. 

Gimmicks..... waste of $20
 
Positives dont outweigh the negatives

hmm you guys are right..it made me think again from buying it. well guess ill skip. Thanks!

Quite honestly, this is junk.  All you are doing is enriching the air/fuel mixture by adding a fixed resistance to the airflow sensor making the system think it is getting denser air.  You are also making the engine run rich by fooling the coolant sensor into thinking the engine isn't warmed up yet.  This is bad for the engine and all emission systems.

I have the 2.0 VAG diesel version with a Mitsubishi approved Ralliart Power Pack taking my 140 HP to 167 HP. It's basically a power box but with warranty from Mitsubishi Netherlands. I actually preferred odb tuning (safer for the engine and about 176 HP) but the warranty was more important to me. I don't regret it though. A lot more torque annd better mileage. I'd recommend it to everyone with a diesel.
Btw i'm new to the forum, have my Outlander since july, driven about 20000 km now and it gets better every day.

Kju, do you know if there is a similar chip for my 2.4 MIVEC petrol engine (170hp)?

abadlot: Man i'm sorry but with a petrol engine I wouldn't even bother. A diesel engine can boost you with 20 to 25% easily, but a petrol engine wil cost you three times more (including other mods) and still won't get you further then an extra 10% (if you're lucky). Also because a turbodiesel generates a lot more torque at the same HP as a petrol engine, I don't think you'll really feel a difference if you add a performance chip compared to a turbodiesel.

Just remember the old saying "You get what you pay for".  This is not a reflash with all all new timing and fuel tables for higher octane fuel.  IT IS A SCAM! 

quote:

ORIGINAL: Kju

I have the 2.0 VAG diesel version with a Mitsubishi approved Ralliart Power Pack taking my 140 HP to 167 HP. It's basically a power box but with warranty from Mitsubishi Netherlands. I actually preferred odb tuning (safer for the engine and about 176 HP) but the warranty was more important to me. I don't regret it though. A lot more torque annd better mileage. I'd recommend it to everyone with a diesel.
Btw i'm new to the forum, have my Outlander since july, driven about 20000 km now and it gets better every day.

Sweet!
I've been contempleting chipping my outie since before I bought it, but decided against it until I had some milage under the hood.
Do you have any links showing the odb tuning with som info+data?


Cheers,


-Morten

My Outlander's fitted with a Ralliart powerbox, not my first choice but it's Mitsubishi approved, so no warranty issues, had it done at 15.000 km.
If I would go for odb I would go to Rica: http://www.rica.nl/chiptuning/showupgrade.php?Merk=15&Model=978
They do the nationwide policecars (mainly really really fast Volvo's) and I've had my previous two cars (also with VAG diesels) done by them as well, so if Mitsubishi NL wouldn't supply the powerbox, I'd have Rica do it. But there are many other companies that can odb tune the engine and some of them even (claim to) specialize in VAG engines. Prices vary from 450 to 850 euro for odb. The Ralliart powerbox was around 1100 euro.
I've seen companies in Belgium doing odb for 399 ( http://www.dmtuning.com/dmt_engels/homepage_engels.html ) and even for less.
DMT is cheap but I haven't read anything bad about them though. It's mainly hooking the car up to a computer, tweak the settings with settings they get from their software supplier, you drive away after 15 minutes with the feeling of owning a new car. Or you can go for a customized program where they reprogram while driving and getting the most optimal settings, which of course takes more time and more cash. The difference between the cheaper and the more expensive ones are mainly (after)service. The software is pretty standard, comes from four or five main suppliers even though they all will tell you otherwise (claiming theirs is unique) A good (and usually expensive) tuner will probably still be in business when you need him to put your settings back if for example the dealer reset everything after a software update and he'll probably do it free of charge. With odb always make sure what their policy is about these things. The cheaper ones tend to charge for everything that's "extra". Also don't forget to check what the local Mitsubishi policy is regarding chiptuning. In the netherlands you just loose warranty on the engine. It's nevertheless hard for them to actually discover that the car has been odb chipped.