possibly a gigantic leak, what you think?

I have a 1997 eclipse gst. And for sum reason my car will shut off when im driving but start right up afterwards. I know the alternator is bad, but I doubt its that, cuz the car starts right up afterwards. So im wondering if it sounds like a gigantic boost leak to you guys. I will prolly take it to my buddies shop later on this week if I get a chance. Im just wondering what to expect. Any input is greatly apprecheated.

does it shut off when comming to a stop or even when driving. Cuz i dont think a leak will cause a car to shut off when moving. How many volts are you getting at the battery during idle?

the car shuts off while driving. when i hit the brakes, it'll sometimes shut off but not always, it's really weird. But if i'm just sitting there it won't shut off, and when i hit the brakes while sitting there the idle doesn't go down at all. And I just replaced the battery again, but tomorrow i'll check to see how many volts it has, if i manage to dig it outta the snow

ok i got one question, are you venting your BOV!!!!???

well the question i ask about the voltage is it could still be that the alternator is on the way out but just hasnt totally crapped out yet

nah man that alternators deff. sh** the bed a long time ago cuz the neg battery came off and the car instantly died out. Also yes i am venting my bov. it's the greddy type rs. Do you guys really think because it's vented it's killing me?

it sounds like an electrical problem but if it starts right up after i dont know. your idle isnt set to low is it? does it just die when your rolling and put the clutch in or. are you stomping on it and putting the clutch in and it dies? ive had similar problems with my gst

that's the weird thing, the idle isn't set low at all, and it'll die when i'm driving, while the clutch is engaged and my foots on the gas. I have no clue, but I just ordered the recirculation valve for my bov that should deff help a little bit. Then once the alternators fixed i'll do a boost leak test. And then i just gotta wait for it to stop fu***** snowing so i can drive the car to the shop,lol

sounds to me like an alternator especially if its diying with your foot on the gass. my lights would flicker and gauges would go crazy when mine was going out. it would die like yours even when driving. it fixed my problem i also needed a new harness going to the alternator was frayed. i hope this helps.i would try and get a new alternator

the only thing i can't explain if it's only the alternator is, how the car would start up no problem afterwards again, cuz usually when the alternator goes its cuz of the car running strictly off the battery and draining it

ya you are right if it is the alternator it would start right up would it? mine didnt it would die and i would have to wait for a while then jump it but is it possible something is wet and shorted out? some times the cars have gremlins mine does. hey maybe it will fix it self thats what i hope for. (not likely) man im glad that 5star kid is gone what an 8 year old girl i bet we are all glad hes gone what a n00b

Since your venting your bov to the atmosphere thats most likey your problem.  Fix that and see if it still does it.

yeah i ordered the valve to recirculate it. now i just gotta find the time to go find my car in the snow and dig it out which should be fun
(wait was the 5 star kid the kid who thought he knew everything and supposettly did all this sh** to cars, but had no realy clue about anything. owned a riced out solver eclipse?)

yea thats was what i was getting at what dsm1990gsx said. these cars are not made to run your BOV to the atmosphere. if you do, it will stall out soon as you take your foot off the gas

Yeah that's what it hopefully is. I knew it wasn't good for the car, but I figured it isn't THAt bad,lol but yeah I hope that's all that's wrong with my car, which we all know it can't be. Cuz its a dsm and there's always more,haha
Ill tell you guys what happens once the part comes in, stay tuned

quote:

ORIGINAL: lhausi2

Yeah that's what it hopefully is. I knew it wasn't good for the car, but I figured it isn't THAt bad,lol but yeah I hope that's all that's wrong with my car, which we all know it can't be. Cuz its a dsm and there's always more,haha
Ill tell you guys what happens once the part comes in, stay tuned

 
I can definately relate to that statement.  These cars are money pits LOL.

i had the same problem with my 97'.. it turned out to be O2 sensors. about $500 to fix all the messed up wiring and replace many other sensors. Ps Alternators give out....they give out.

quote:

ORIGINAL: gmarc68

i had the same problem with my 97'.. it turned out to be O2 sensors. about $500 to fix all the messed up wiring and replace many other sensors. Ps Alternators give out....they give out.

 
that better be a wideband setup otherwise you got ****ed buddy !!!

im 99.99% sure that once you recir your bov that your car will be running fine

i had to take it straight to the dealer ship and the charge a $*** load just to look at it. plus parts and labor.

Yeah i took my car to "the best place in town" guy popped the hood and said i don't wanna even get started with it . And yeah i checked the sensors at my work cuz i was wicked bored and they're 125 and 100 bucks. that mechanic told me to take it to a dealer, and i started laughin and said i'll do it myself,lol
and yeah dms's are money pits, more than other cars, as of now this is deff. my last eclipse the only other dsm i'd get anytime soon is an evo which i hope to get into soon

dont mean to sound like an ass guys ...
but last i checked universal 4 wire sensors can be had dirt cheap !!!
and as long as your not colour blind im sure anyone can cut off the wires off the old sensor and match it to the new unit and soter and heatshrink the connections.
i mean theres 4 wires:
2 black for the heater element
1 purple or blue ground reference from chassy or ECU
1 gray or white signal to ECU
 
how hard is that..
and if anyone gives you the not OEM speech tell them to shove it cuz i spoke to several reps from Bosch and NTK and they all said the same thing:
the sensors are basicly the same besides the wiring and thats what you pay the extra for unless its being used on several other vechicles and thats where the price drop occurs and manufacturing costs fall.
 
anyways...
i ran into problems like this several times and solved it with the universal units.
cheaper and works just as good if not better.
 

yeah or if you don't wanna do that you can always cut off the old connector and just match up the wires. Don't ask me why but at my job i've heard some customers say that the universal ones don't last as long, don't see why they wouldn't. And for the universal ones, they are a pain in the ba*** to do the way the manufacturer wanted you to do it. They give you all these pieces and want you to "make your own plug" outta it. and yeah it is the same thing except for the plug

Well I just changed the alternator and found out the old one wasn't bad. I also put on the recirculated valve. And so far nothing changed,haha but yeah it has to have boost leaks, cuz whenever I rev it the rpm's drop all the way and it stalls out. So hopefully tuesday I can do a boostleak test on it. And I watched the volts on the battery, they moved from 12.2 up to 13.4 volts, just wondering if that's normal

ok so today i tried moving my car after doing the alternator(turns out the old one was good) and the car died and the battery light came on, and it's not the alt. and it can't be the battery cuz i changed it at least 8 times in the past month. you guys know what else it could be?