Rough idel and dying - Page 2

EEPS I HATE doing PS racks... They are a BITCH. (Pardon my french) Basically there isn't really an aftermarket piece to replace that just stick with stock. Unless you're planning on changing the steering system to something else. I dunno why you'd do that. As for the bushings... What alternator bushings? The little metal pieces that go in the boltholes? I see NO reason THAT would cause it to eat belts but I dunno. Good to hear you're idling better now though.

I'm guessing that they think the alternator moves enough, and the belt gets worn and then breaks. I'm still on belt number three for now, but I haven't put much of a load on it. I'm gona try a new alternator tomorrow, I ordered a crank pully from Unothadox, but it's on back order untill late November.....that might also be the problem.

I don't see how the crank pulley would affect the alternator belt. But if you DO get the new alternator then you'd get the "bushings" the techs are talking about. Though if you're eatting belts you need to look at WHERE the belt is geting eaten at. Inside or outside? Top or bottom? That'll give you a clue where to look for your problem.

just check the general: plugs, wires, air box/filter...then maf and o2 sensors... and hope that's as bad as it gets...
oh, and if you end up needing a MAF, lemmie know... I've had lots of these kinds of idle problems... i've got a ton of working MAF sensors!

When you change the altanator check all the accessory/tensioner pullys with the belt off for free movment maybe one of them is binding

I betcha that's what it is is the tensioner. They used the spring loaded tensioners right? I can't remember.

Ive seen em chew through a belt in a few days if its bad enough

Yeah that's why I'm thikning tnesioner not alternator. Have the tensioner checked before replacing the alternator.

If it was the crank pully i think youd have a lot bigger problem than chewing belts, its gotta be a bad tensioner.

Yeah no kidding lol. But he was saying it was the bushings for the alternator mounts which I don't see those going either...

ok, update...I had one guy saying $400 to replace the alternator, Um, no thanx...So I jumped in and started tearing it apart....(Is the fan on the right side, facing the front of the car, for the AC?) I took it off and it's in the garage...(don't have ac in anymore) anyways, I started to take the alternator off, and noticed that my mounting bolt, the one thats on the part where it swivels up/down, was loose. the nut on the inside wasn't catching on the little nub on the alternator. so I held it with a visegrip, and TADA! everythings tight now, I put a new belt on and adjusted everything. So far, so good. Only took it out for a short drive (the kids in bed) My idle problem seems to be mostly taken care of also. (new idle speed stabalizer) but it's still killed 2-3 times in the last 5-6 days...but I'll let that go for a bit. Also just installed a new Dejon Tool intake, it seems to rev/spool a little faster :) We'll see if she makes it to work tomorrow... Anyone live in Minnesota?

WHOA dud PUT THE FAN BACK IN!!!!! That is NOT for the AC. There IS no fan for AC. that fan is for your cooling system!! DON'T drive long periods without it in. It automatically turns on and off to maintain presets engine temps. And I TOLD ya it wasn't the "bushings" that were bad. But with that bolt loose I can see why it would eat the belts now. Good to hear at least PART of the problem is fixed now let's see if we can go further into the rough idle a bit more. Can you consistantly recreate the problem? If so exactly what do you do to cause it to die?

There are, were two fans in there, the one I took out never went on really, it would start spinning right when the other fan was just about to stop, run for 1-3 sec and stop. I havn't had any idle problems for the past few days, nothing at all sence I tightened the alternator and put a new belt on, seems to be solved with the combo of idle speed stabalizer/alternator problems. I've also fixed a few boost leaks....new intake from Dejon Tool :) (I "had" to get that cuz I had a leak there, I think)

Oh I thought you'd pulled the whole fan assembly (I though both were in the same case...) Well keep an eye on temps for the next few days driving see what it does and guage from there whether you should put the 2nd one in or not. I'd recommend having it in just cuz it was put there for a reason and I KNOW that it's not for the AC. But that's all up to you. Good to hear that the idle problem is fixed too. Bet it was due to fluctuation in the alternator voltage for some odd reason...

Good to hear you got the belt problem fixed. I had the same idle problem on my laser, I thought it was the iac motor but I didnt have the money to replace it at the time so I just let it idle like sh$t. A few weeks later I was doing a regular tune up and I decided to check my timing. Well it was WAY off so I ajusted it and it fixed the problem. Does/did your car surge at low rpm's(in parking lots and stuff)?

well, it was a little jumpy at low rpm's mostly it would just kill, but it was allways jerky kinda. After the IAC and fixing the alternator problem, Boost leaks, and a new intake, my idle is pretty good. I'm still thinking about having the timing checked. So Whats next everyone? Exhaust? or should I replace the PS Rack? Rear swaybar?

Well if your rack is leaking I'd sa that would be the next thing to hit. Safety before performance you know?

Definitaly the ps if its leaking any fluid.... if you dont the first time it locks up while turning a coner you would wish you would have fixed it sooner.

Exactly. Just what I said safety before performance. And steering DEFINATELY falls under safety as well as performance

I had a 89 ranger that leaked fluid and twice when it was really low the truck stalled turning right and locked the steering wheel... that sucked! and the only thing the two times had in common was the lack of ps fluid..... dont know why it stalled but it was a little scary the first time it happened but luckly i was only doing like 10 miles an hour.

could always be the cam sensor... same thing hppened to me in my 97 mit eclipse gst! either that, or a vac leak... if u even have ur vac hose connected!

I would really like to have someone that knows alot about these cars to take a look at it. Archer Racing is about 4 hrs away from me, but work schedule conflicts with getting there. Does anyone live in Minnesota, Twin Cities area, that knows about 1g eclipses that would be willing to give it a once over?