turbo charging a non-turbo?

Yeah, I prob shoulda' bought a gst or gsx in the first place, but I'm interested in turning my '96 eclipse spyder gs (4g64 engine) into a turbo...but I really don't know that much about the process or what parts I need to support the turbo, but willing and wanting to learn.

If turboing seems too complicated for this engine or too expensive, maybe someone can tell me what parts I can buy and install just to make it faster...

Thanks all

the problem w/ turbo install on a non turbo car is all the other things you have to upgrade that you don't think about. you can probably get a turbo added for around $1500-3000 but then you got to beef up the trans and axles and brakes because your car wasn't made for that much horsepower so your upgrade goes up another $1500-3000 easy. your basic n/a upgrades will give you better throttle response, more torque and more horsepower at a fraction of the cost. If you've got the money go for it otherwise good intake,ignition,exhaust,throttle bodies and injecters will get you started.

madmat is very right. most people don't think about the tranny and axles, and brakes cause it slips their mind that their car wasn't made for that much power. my buddy has a gst with a 20g ( and all other components ) well, we were at the track the other day and when he pulled into 2nd he blew a hole the size of a quarter in his tranny. it was wicked as hell, but that just goes to show. what he did was have a guy rebuild a GSX tranny (they are WAY stronger due to the AWD factor) and now it runs like a charm, but that was about $1100. add $800 for brake upgrades and you've already doubled the cost of your turbo kit. but if you have the money man... there is NOTHING better than rollin up in an RS and kickin a mustangs ass! cause they are like... WTF!? hahahah

It costs a lot and then u have to get a new computer to make it work on your engine.

i have a 420a i was wondering what sites i can find a good tranny that can hold more power possilbly maybe a six speed. and a site where i can beef up my axles

sorry, no idea.......... how much are you pushing on that engine, cause if you dont have any major mods yet, you shouldnt need to upgrade the tranny yet, id worry about the engine first, the tranny can hold its own untill you hit probly around 200 hp crank......... then you might need to upgrade it....... i believe its the same tranny as the gs, which is a 2.0 4g63 compared to the 1.8 ltr 420a

Whoa whoa whoa, i can't believe i missed this one. I am a firm believer in the power potential of any 2g spyder gs. They can handle as much power as any 4g63 with just some forged pistons and *maybe* a head swap. The 420a comes in 2 flavors, the 2.0liter and the 2.4liter. The 4g6 block also comes in a 2.0liter and a a 2.4liter. The 2.0liter is the 4g63, the 2.4 is called the 4g64. Now, the 420a in any TEL was always the 1998cc DOHC version. The 4g63 of course came in the turbo TEL cars. However, the 4g64 was only offered in the 96-99 Spyder GS(we're talking original DSM, TEL). Turbocharging a spyder gs is as simple as gathering oem 1st gen or 2nd gen turbo components and slapping it on. Every 4g63 component(except pistons) can fit on the 4g64, even the ecu's are interchangeable. Of course you can only use certain 2g components when applicable, like the obd2 ecu and knock sensor i believe, but those things are very plentiful and still cheap. The transmissions for the 4g64 and 4g63 are slightly different, but still very much the same. The 4g63 came with the F5M33 mitsubishi made transmission, while the 4g64 came with the F5M31. Notice only the last digit is different, and they say the last digit is the strength rating of the transmission. It's not all that much weaker. A note on how to break down mitsu transmissions: the "F" stands for front wheel drive while a "W" stands for AWD, the "5" means the gear number, of course 5 *forward* gears, the "M" stands for Manual and an "A" stands for automatic, and the last two numbers are supposedly strength rating of the transmission...nobody knows for sure really. So an EVO or GSX automatic would carry an W4A33 while the manual version would be a W5M33. Anyways, the gears are interchangeable in ALL versions of the transmissions, so mix and match to your delight. As for the 420A tranny, Mopar did briefly make a six speed manual transmission while the R/T's and ACR's were dominating their class in SCCA, but ceased production. I think it was only sold to certified race teams, so finding one that hasn't been wrung out might be a challenge. Now going from a 5 speed to a 6 speed is not as cool as you might think. If i were drag racing, i prefer a 5 speed any day of the week. If i'm autocrossing, a 6 speed may do me some good. However, for daily driving, i prefer a 5 speed or even automatic(I'm like superlazy sometimes, most of the time). Be aware that in most transmissions that were 5 speeds and became six speeds(Y2k Celica GT and then GTS, Ford Focus and then SVT) the 6th gear ratio is often the same as the 5 gear ratio of the 5 speed, so no increase in top speed. Once again, strength is dependant on the manufacturer, but the 420a's are said to have a very strong transmission. There is a racer out there that drives a race prepped NA 1996 neon and is putting down i think close 350hp to the wheels and still runs a FACTORY AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION!!! I don't know if he upgraded the torque converter or not, but seriously i don't think he did. I forget his name, but he used to build drag bikes also, it's a green neon that he drives. 420a's are reputed for having weak axles....so refocus on those. But just have fun.

I was wondering if you have the 2.0l from lets say a gs and slap a turbo on it all you really have to do is get the full exhaust, intake, ecu, boost gauge and your basicaly a gs-t? The transmission should be the same along with the pistons and rods right or am i wrong?

smartoss, it depends on which 2.0 you get and from which car. The 2.0 from the 1g(89-94) TEL is a 4g63 and *can* be roughly made into a gst describing the method you stated(just missing a few parts). The 2.0 from the 2g(95-99) cars are different from the 4g63 and nothing at all will really bolt up between the two.

My buddy just installed the hahnsmotorsport turbo kit and full exhaust on his 97 RS. The kit came with everything he needed to do the swap and the kits made for a RS. He got new injectors, fuel pump, exhaust manifold, wastegate, intercooler, breather, fuel rail, intake, and other stuff i cant remember. I road with him yesterday and that thing will fly now, still isnt as fast as my 93 MR2 turbo, but he's puttin out about 220 to the wheels. All together with the exhaust it ran him around $4500 i think. The exhaust itself was $1300 but you wouldnt need to buy the exhaust too. We installed it ourselves and it took two days of working on and off to install. Its a really great complete kit with good instructions and it made to work with a stock setup besides with what comes in the kit.

N8s93turbo, did you friend have anything else done to his car besides the exhaust and the turbo kit? Also which stage turbo was it? Cause I have been thinking about turboing my car but I am not sure if I want to. I have a 99 gs eclipse

He didnt rebuild the engine or anything, he upgraded the clutch like 2months ago, he's running stock axles and everything else, but like i said the kit comes with everything from down pipe, manifold, intercooler, to a fuel pump an injectors.

I have been looking at that brand for turbo kits and they have stage 1 and stage 2 last time I checked. Does he have stage 2?

not sure, i'll have to ask him

Where did you get the hahnsmotorsport turbo kit from? Just did a search and nothing comes up.

I have a friend that wants to turbo his 96 eclipse and we have been looking for a kit .

Any suggestions to some complete kits?

Go to www.slowboyracing.com do your research.

what's the wastegate set at on the hahnsmotorsport kit? Sorry about ressurrecting this one, but I'd really like to know.

quote:

ORIGINAL: x_spearmint

what's the wastegate set at on the hahnsmotorsport kit? Sorry about ressurrecting this one, but I'd really like to know.

stage 1 is around 5psi, stage 2 is at 8psi

dropin a turbo into a non turbo car is fun for a while but you will eventualy lose compression in you engin and make alot of mechanical bills for yourself. the best thing to do is go with supercharging a car because your supercharger is producing more power from teh begining and you dont have to wait for your turbo to kick in.... superchargers are also alot better for your engine because there not running the same kind of boost...therefor you will have you engine for alot longer then you would with a turbo...upgradin your already turbo engine is fine.

quote:

ORIGINAL: PROUDOWNEROFASKYLINE

dropin a turbo into a non turbo car is fun for a while but you will eventualy lose compression in you engin and make alot of mechanical bills for yourself. the best thing to do is go with supercharging a car because your supercharger is producing more power from teh begining and you dont have to wait for your turbo to kick in.... superchargers are also alot better for your engine because there not running the same kind of boost...therefor you will have you engine for alot longer then you would with a turbo...upgradin your already turbo engine is fine.

you sir are wrong

I would like to be a proud owner of a skyline ;).

I agree with the fact, if you put a stage 2 turbo kit on your GS, it will shorten the life of your car mechanically. Some people don't have problems but I have seen a bunch of them start breaking down mechanically... Im not saying its not worth it.. If you run a low enough psi on your GS you prolly will love it and will be glad you upgraded, but don't run it to be a track superstar or you will run into problems.

There is very good information here. Thanks for sharing. I have sucessfuly just paid off my 96 GS Spyder and have been waiting for this moment for a LONG time. I now have the money to alter my baby the way I want to.

I guess my main question is, do I need to replace my current engine with something else, rebuild my current engine, or just install the "bolt on" aftermarket parts? My concern is I would like the most power for the best investment for the most reliability from the motor. I am not one of those people that "hot-dog" every time i get out on the road. I have kept my car in excellent condition and the motor is still very strong. This IS my everyday driving car but also have the means of transportation for short times when parts are being installed or upgraded.

When I bought this car there were NO aftermarket performance parts available. I am now seeing performance upgraded for my model. I appreaciate the post stating which parts were interchangeable between the 2.0 and the 2.4 liter motors. That does make a big difference.

I also have a concern with the amount of space that is available under the hood. Will cutting of firewalls, fenders, or anything be required to add components?

Im not looking to be the fasted Spyder on the road, but when you live in Tennessee, you have to deal with some realy crazy drivers. I would like to not worry about being able to jump around a situation if needed. The occasional stomping of a wannabe Honda would be nice too. ;)

Thanks in advance for any replies to this.

My best to all the Mitsubishi enthusists!!

to the guy that thinks supers are better than turbos. your an idiot supers lose hp to gain hp turbos are free hp.to the other guy looking for turbo kits or any one modern performance.comm will have almost every thing you need also summit for intake systems from venom. as for what your looking for you can just about do any thing you want a high compresson na motor or a low comptesson big boosted motor its up to you witch way you want to go you really cant lose! just rember when you turbo, turbo lag, compresson,fuel,igintion,drive train and ecu.oh bye the way i have a 96 eclipse.

Please look at the dates before you post, this thread is over a year old.

the talon has a turbo you could use that as a resource....horsepowerfreaks.com has alot of good parts