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Rear Rotor Removal question

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Mitsubishi Forum >> Mitsubishi Models >> Mitsubishi Eclipse & Eclipse Spyder >> 3rd Generation >> Rear Rotor Removal question Page: [1]
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Rear Rotor Removal question - 5/19/2007 1:08:17 PM   
Wingo171


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Well, I'm trying to remove my rear rotors on my 02 eclipse gt and I can't get the damn rotor off. I have the caliper romoved from it and it should just slide right off shouldn't it? Is  it bolted down or something because it's not just coming off like most rotors I've seen removed before.

_____________________________

2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT
95' Eclipse GSX
Currently restoring it (GSX update, The block is done, and the clutch is done. I have the header, and wastegate. next I'm working on the head and the fuel system.)
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RE: Rear Rotor Removal question - 5/19/2007 1:32:10 PM   
silvercoupe97



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You can tap the inner portion of the rotor with a rubber mallet or a hammer, as long as you put a piece of wood on the rotor.  If you have penetrating oil, spray where the hub meets the rotor and let it sit for several minutes then hit it with a mallet again.    

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Thanks,
John
6 bolt/2g head,1G rods/2G pistons,FPBig28,MBC,Forge 1G DV,alky inj,AFPR,255lph,780cc, 3" turboback,Centerforce,4 spider,FMIC, Prosport Boost&EGT gauges,AEM wideband,DSMlink, AGX/Skunk2

(in reply to Wingo171)
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RE: Rear Rotor Removal question - 5/28/2007 6:18:11 AM   
Patrick


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first (possibly the easiest) solution, is to make sure that your e-brake is off...many people run into this "problem" because the e-brake is engaged.

the rotors get rusted on..its a real pain in the ass if you havent dealt with it before.  if the rotors are junk, and you are REPLACING them, you can pound the crap out of them with a hammer, as they are junk.  if you are going to reuse them, hitting them hard with a hammer can cause future warping issues...but you can tap them gently with a hammer between the studs, however, if yours are on there as hard as mine were, tapping wont do it. 

the next way to go about fixing this is to run bolts into the rotor.  if you look at the mounting surface (between the studs) there are 2 rubber grommets.  they come out very easily.  you will then want to find a bolt that is about 1-1.5 inches long, that matches the thread pattern of the holes under these grommets. if you have some bolts laying around, just hand-thread a few in, until you find the right one.  if you find one that works, go to home depot and buy another one, as two bolts makes this MUCH easier.  once you have the bolts, and have them started, you will want to gently tighten each one. first one a few turns, then the other...you want to move them in at the same rate..DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS.  as you tighten each one, the rotor will suddenly "pop" off.  i use claiber bolts from an old saab, but i dont expect that everyone has those laying around.

but before you do anything, be sure that the rotor will spin freely. if it spins freely and you just cannot get it off,i would strongly recommend the bolt trick.  if it doesnt spin freely, something is seized up...such as the e-brake.

< Message edited by Patrick -- 5/28/2007 6:19:17 AM >


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RE: Rear Rotor Removal question - 5/28/2007 1:22:58 PM   
silvercoupe97



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I highly agree with the e-brake!  I've done it myself a once.
Hopefully though, Wingo171 has gotten it by now, lol.


_____________________________

Thanks,
John
6 bolt/2g head,1G rods/2G pistons,FPBig28,MBC,Forge 1G DV,alky inj,AFPR,255lph,780cc, 3" turboback,Centerforce,4 spider,FMIC, Prosport Boost&EGT gauges,AEM wideband,DSMlink, AGX/Skunk2

(in reply to Patrick)
Post #: 4
RE: Rear Rotor Removal question - 6/12/2007 2:18:29 PM   
Wingo171


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yeah, I got it off, but my anti lock brakes are messed up and ever since I replaced the brakes and rotors the passenger side rear is squeeling a lot, when moving  or braking... it's a not so good situation... So now I have to figure out what I need to replace on the electrical side of that, and adjust my e-brake cable.

_____________________________

2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT
95' Eclipse GSX
Currently restoring it (GSX update, The block is done, and the clutch is done. I have the header, and wastegate. next I'm working on the head and the fuel system.)

(in reply to silvercoupe97)
Post #: 5
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