|
pc -> RE: How to replace front rotors on 95? Special Tools? (7/3/2005 2:16:44 PM)
|
This is an up update of this thread.
I have just stated to remove the front hubs to re-pack the front bearings, DS first. I had to trace down the mysterious, "lock nut removal tool". Well I found one that you can adapt quite easily. I bought mine at Advance Auto for $10. It's listed for a 1978 - Current Ford F-series 3/4 - 1 ton or 1973 GM 3/4 - 1 ton 4DW. It's made by a company called AmPro (part # T72047), but there are probably other companies who make this type of tool. I had originally looked at the 1/2 ton model but it is too small in diameter. This tool is actually for a 6 slot lock nut and as you know, the Montero uses a 2 pin tool. To modify you will need an angle grinder, a metel cut-off wheel and grinding wheel and hand file. Use the cut-off wheel to remove 4 of the tabs on the tool, of course be careful to leave two opposite tabs. Use the grinding wheel to grind down the last little bit and use the file to round off the outside edges of the remaining tabs so they will fit into the lock nut holes. That's it. You can use just a grinder but that will take more time and create more heat. Now I found that when it came time to spin off the lock nut I didn't need the tool, it just spun out by hand. I was worried it was too loose so I checked the tightening torque values with the manual. The manual calls for an initial torque of 94-145 ft/lbs, then loosen to zero then re-tighten to 18 ft/lbs and then loosen 30-40 degrees. As well if the lock washer holes do not align with the threaded holes in the lock nut you can move it 20 more degrees, I assume loosen as the picture seems to indicate loosen 20 degrees to the next hole. The final proof of the locknut torque is to use a fish scale and a length of cord that wraps around the hub wheel lugs. Pull the scale to get a value from between 1.1 - 4.0 lbs. of resistance, 2-3 lbs. is going to be about right. So with all that I guess the lock nut was not too loose as it had not been touched since factory. The reason for all this is to squeeze out the grease and seat the bearings, then loosen to establish the correct preload. Another part to this is the snap ring, it's external. It does not have the removal holes as most snap rings have, just beveled edges. I found I could use my snap ring pliers and a screwdriver as a pry to open the snap ring and pry it past the groove. Be careful as these snap rings are hardened and will break if you force them too hard. Also I recommend installing a new inner hub seal. Lastly adjust the axle end play from .016 - .028 using shim kit from Mitsubishi if necessary.
Hope this helps.
|
|
|
|
