Replacing all stock audio in car
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RE: Replacing all stock audio in car - 4/30/2008 10:24:42 PM
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Dusty Eclipse
Posts: 4353
Joined: 2/23/2007
From: 11746,21114,34668
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It all depends on what you want to spend...
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Current cars: (What I havent wrecked)
1995 Eagle Talon TSi "Jackie"
2001 Mitsu. Eclipse GT "Dusty"
2000 Volvo V70R AWD "Mindy"
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RE: Replacing all stock audio in car - 5/2/2008 6:59:37 PM
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HandyPal
Posts: 32
Joined: 3/6/2008
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One thing to keep in mind - if you want to preserve factory steering wheel audio controls functionality (if so your car is equipped) with your aftermarket install you may need some additional adapters/converters. I would do a lot of research prior to getting anything like you did. Your head unit looks attractive but only time-test would tell how reliable/good it is. I would stay with something solid and well known like Clarion, Panasonic, Denon, Nakamichi etc. If you need an extra punch on your/passengers' ear drums, then get an external amp. The choice is really broad! Be careful though, some designs are notorious for reliability. You may want to ask/visit local electronic repair shop which does warranty on this kind of equipment - you will often be surprised. Make sure your speaker set matches or exceeds the power output of your system. I would start from selecting the best speakers available for your type of car to install with the least amount of mod and then get a proper amp to drive them. Good luck audio/videophiling!
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You get what you see when you see what you get.
Outtie 08 is expected to last and perform.
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RE: Replacing all stock audio in car - 5/4/2008 5:47:36 PM
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Lil Evo
Posts: 651
Joined: 7/13/2006
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First things first, I wouldn't have gone with the unit that you did. Having a din receiver and then another din monitor is usually not the best indicator for quality, and I've never heard of Eonon before. I would personally have gone something a little more main stream like Clarion, Pioneer, Alpine, Eclipse, etc. You can't go wrong with any of these brands, and you know you're getting a quality product. Second, I would not do as mentioned in the previous post in getting speakers prior to amplification. I would go the other way around, find yourself a couple good quality amplifiers. No dual, pyle, sony, or any other wal-mart brand crap. A quality 4ch amplifier to drive the speakers, and a good mono/2ch amp to drive the lower end. THEN, go about picking your speakers. You'll want something that is within the upper 3rd of the RMS rating of your amps (ex. an amp with 80 watts RMS/channel would work wonderfully with a speaker rated for 75w RMS or better). Don't be fooled by peak power ratings, those are often blown out of proportion and can mislead you into buying something that really wasn't what you needed or wanted. Just be sure to chose carefully, if the speaker to greatly exceeds the rating of the amp, it can cause distortion and will eventually ruin the voice coil. If the speaker is being overpowered by the amp, you'll burn it up in no time. Expect a qulity set up (assuming you keep the current head unit) to run, at a minimum of $1200 in parts alone. More if you get it professionally installed, and from what you've described so far, I would probably recomend it just to be safe. Don't have a buddy do it, I don't know how many cars I get every week come in because someone in your situation had one of their 'boyz' hook it up and wonder why things are sparking behind the dash and fuses keep blowing. Just my $0.02, take it or leave it.
< Message edited by Lil Evo -- 5/4/2008 6:00:00 PM >
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