just bs...help..yea

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just bs...help..yea

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just bs...help..yea - 5/8/2008 11:47:32 AM

2kEclipseTurbo

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Hey guys, thanks for taking to time to look at this, after my friend installed a head unit in my 2000 eclipse gt, i lost my right Front turn signal, my AC , my cruise controll, rear wiper spray, and my wipers stop in all differant positions. i have tested all fuses, and they are good, i have NOT tested any relays, just switched a few around. i am pasted inspection, and i cant go another summer without AC, nobody understands how all these things stopped working at once, i finally got fed up and took it to my local auto zone, the guy said my main relay box is probley shot, its a blue long box about 6 inches long directly under the dash board, the # on it is "mr490283 ". While attemping to put the right turn signal on, there are loud clicks Supposely coming from this box, also when i engage my rear wiper spray, i hear a Click from the supposed same box........ this whole is very dissappointing, and i cant stand this anymore please for the love of god somebody help me. does any1 have any Ideas, or WHERE can i get that main relay box please.. help.. thank you so much my email is

aj_lapd@comcast
myspace.com/fight4trufreedom

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RE: just bs...help..yea - 5/8/2008 12:52:07 PM

Rob

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Your friend most likely installed that head unil improperly. Take it out and see what happens.

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RE: just bs...help..yea - 5/8/2008 12:58:02 PM

Nakura17

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I'd do the same, just back trace your steps (take the unit out) - I know from my Jeep that wires a a f'ing pain to mess and guess with. Like Rob said, just take the unit out and go from there.

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RE: just bs...help..yea - 5/8/2008 6:40:50 PM

Lil Evo

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how do you do that much damage on a simple deck install? seriously now, i'd be telling your buddy to get out his check book cuz if it were me, he'd be footing the bill. Seriously though, I don't know how he screwed it up that badly, it's a pretty straight foward install. Pull out what you put in and start back at square one, this time without the bad luck friend.

EDIT: If I may be so bold as to quote myself from another topic;

" I would probably recomend it [professional installation] just to be safe. Don't have a buddy do it, I don't know how many cars I get every week come in because someone in your situation had one of their 'boyz' hook it up and wonder why things are sparking behind the dash and fuses keep blowing. Just my $0.02, take it or leave it."

I've said it before and I'll say it again, if you don't know what you're doing, leave it to a pro, you spend less money that way.

< Message edited by Lil Evo -- 5/8/2008 6:53:11 PM >

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RE: just bs...help..yea - 5/9/2008 9:46:00 PM

2kEclipseTurbo

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HEY GUYS! My bad on the late responce, it was suppose to email me when i get responces, yeah so see what happend was he hooked up the head unit, NOT knowing there was a Stock Amp..... so any other ideas? the STOCK head unit and AMp are installed once agian, and of course nothing still works... just ugh i swear...

(in reply to Lil Evo)

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RE: just bs...help..yea - 5/10/2008 12:06:12 AM

silvercoupe97

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Ok, so the stock headunit is reinstalled. Square one.
Did the person who reinstalled the stock unit happen to notice any loose or uncovered wires? That clicking you hear is most likely some of the relays found behind just about every fusebox. Did the guy that previously installed the aftermarket headunit blindly cut wires and not reconnect them? My suggestion, and I'm sure Lil'Evo will say the same, is to use an aftermarket wiring harness (if you don't use a pro to install). It will be as simple as connecting the headunit's wiring harness to the aftermarket wiring harness, all of which can be done in the comfort of you cooled home. After which you can just plug it in and play. The stock amp has no bearing on your issues either, neither does an aftermarket headunit...initially. You will burn out the amps speaker level inputs because of the aftermarkets powered speaker output is connected to them and the stock unit is just a signal (no power).
The previous install seems to be the fault of the issues that you are having, at least that what it seems like to me from your first post. Here's what I "see". Your buddy started cutting wires, not know what they do. He may have had an ohm meter or a voltage checker of some sort to find power. He may have forgot to reinstall those same wires while doing a power up check. The reason I say this is because your a/c, turn signal, wiper, spray, etc. are all underneath the same area that he was in. I imagine that all those plugs were removed to remove the radio bezel and radio. My suggestion to you is to get a pro to find those wires that he mix matched and start fresh...and yes, IMO he should have to foot the bill for screwing it up...unless there is something you're not telling us

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Thanks,
John
6 bolt/2g head,1G rods/2G pistons,FPBig28,MBC,Forge 1G DV,alky inj,AFPR,255lph,780cc, 3" turboback,Centerforce,4 spider,FMIC, Prosport Boost&EGT gauges,AEM wideband,DSMlink, AGX/Skunk2

(in reply to 2kEclipseTurbo)

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RE: just bs...help..yea - 5/10/2008 8:23:44 AM

2kEclipseTurbo

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thank you for your responce, i appreciate it... well before he installed the Head unit, we did buy an adaptor, it plugged into the Stock headunit connector, and the other end of the new adaptor was all Wires. so he connected the after market HU, to the adaptor's Wires. if that makes sense... NOW was this all our fault because we did NOT disconnect the battery? Is there ANYWAY possible to test relays with a multimeter? i live near philly pa if anybody lives close to me.. thank you guys soo much...

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RE: just bs...help..yea - 5/10/2008 1:44:26 PM

silvercoupe97

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quote:

ORIGINAL: 2kEclipseTurbo

thank you for your responce, i appreciate it... well before he installed the Head unit, we did buy an adaptor, it plugged into the Stock headunit connector, and the other end of the new adaptor was all Wires. so he connected the after market HU, to the adaptor's Wires. if that makes sense... NOW was this all our fault because we did NOT disconnect the battery? Is there ANYWAY possible to test relays with a multimeter? i live near philly pa if anybody lives close to me.. thank you guys soo much...

Ah ok, that's good then. I've seen many installers connect plugs with the battery still installed (although, they weren't my favorite installers) and not affect vehicle electronics. But, that doesn't mean that things didn't get burned or fried from a sudden spark when those plugs are connected and certain items are powered (which share power with the same plugs). It is always best to remove battery power.
I would suggest removing the radio again and just making sure that the plugs to the said systems are plugged in correctly. I say this because some cars really don't have space behind the radio and if any of the harnesses are dangling and get caught by the rear of the radio as it is being pushed back in, it may have unplugged a harness or two. That may be causing your issues.
Another thing to thoroughly check is the main fusebox found under the hood. Rechecking the fuses under the dash wouldn't hurt either. I would also suggest using an "airbag safe" test light or a multimeter on the fuses, because just looking at them doesn't always work. Just note that not all the fuses will have power to both "legs" unless that particular system is turned on.

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Thanks,
John
6 bolt/2g head,1G rods/2G pistons,FPBig28,MBC,Forge 1G DV,alky inj,AFPR,255lph,780cc, 3" turboback,Centerforce,4 spider,FMIC, Prosport Boost&EGT gauges,AEM wideband,DSMlink, AGX/Skunk2

(in reply to 2kEclipseTurbo)

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RE: just bs...help..yea - 5/11/2008 3:40:47 PM

Lil Evo

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Wut he said, minus the test light. I'll never touch one of those things, I've read too many horror stories about airbags going off in people's faces or BCM's seeing the additional resistance and basically give ppl the finger. Meter it.

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